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west cornwall
Land's End
Land's End makes a satisfying scenic conclusion to the British mainland, though the theme park development two sensory experiences, plus farm animals, a sound and light show, amusement arcades, burger bars, gift shops and craft centres won't be to everyone's taste. However a public footpath leads to the cliff, so there's no obligation to pay admission just to enjoy the view, which stretches past the offshore Longships lighthouse towards the Isles of Scilly.
You can soon find solitude by walking for a couple of minutes south-east from here, along one of the best splendid stretches of coast path in Britain, towards Porthcurno and Treen. Beyond the major headland the wonderful bay of Nanjizal reveals itself, with access to a remote beach at the far side. Good bus services from Penzance to Land's End and Treen make it possible to walk one way and bus back.
Head east on the A30 and branch off onto the B3315. It's worth making a couple of diversions to the coast from this road, but the minor roads can be slow-going and in the height of season it may be less stressful to explore the whole stretch on foot by the coast path. The first turning leads to the tiny hamlet of Porthgwarra, a secretive place with a delightful little beach beneath towering headlands.
From here you can either walk east for 20 minutes along the coast path or travel round the long way by road to Porthcurno, where the famous Minack Theatre (tel: (01736) 810181) is perched on the cliffs with the Atlantic for its backdrop. This unique outdoor theatre was the creation of Rowena Cade in the 1930s and each summer hosts amateur and professional productions: her remarkable achievement is chronicled in the theatre's visitor centre.
Evening shows are particularly atmospheric; seats unreserved, so if you've booked he still need to get there early to bag the best.
Beneath is another magnificent beach (the current can be strong), and close by, the Museum of Submarine Telegraphy occupies the underground tunnels of a secret wartime communications centre.
Again, you can choose whether to take a fairly easy stroll along the cliffs or a winding road route to the next place, Treen. This gives access to one of the most spectacular features on the whole Cornish coast Treryn Dinas, a long, rocky promontory with remains of an Iron Age cliff castle at its landward end, and sensational views in both directions. In the village, the Logan Rock is a characterful place for a drink.
Further along the B3315, just south of the road, is the Merry Maidens stone circle, of Bronze Age date. Supposedly the maidens were turned to stone for dancing on the Sabbath, while the nearby standing stones known as The Pipers played the tune. Just after this, a small road leads down a wooded valley to Lamorna Cove, a spot ever-popular with artists; it does get rather a crush in high season and the narrow road struggles to cope with peak-time traffic. Lamorna Pottery serves cream teas in the garden, while the Lamorna Wink is a good spot for a pub lunch, with interesting warship memorabilia.
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