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east sussex
Battle
The Wealden town of Battle takes its name from the most famous and perhaps the most most disorganised skirmish in British history - the Battle of Hastings of 1066 when the Normans defeated the English in a battle they should really have lost, being both outnumbered and at the bottom of the hill. Battle Abbey was built four years after the bloodshed by the victorious William on the very site: the altar is supposed to be where the English king, Harold, fell. Not much remains of the original building, but you can look into the monks dormitory and common room, and there's a splendid 14th-century gate house which dominates the little market square. Beyond is the battlefield itself: an audio tour fleshes out the dramatic history in a mile-long walk.
The rest of town has some attractive corners, though the busy traffic does take away some of the appeal. For browsing there are antiques shops, cafes and two entertaining small museums the Battle Museum of Local History within the ancient Almonry, including a diorama of the Battle of Hastings as well as a reproduction of the Bayeux Tapestry; and Yesterday's World, with period shops, a railway station and hands-on activities.
With the abbey on your left, follow the main street and turn right on the road through Whatlington. Keep left at a fork and left on the A21, then right on the B2089. At Cripp's Corner turn left on the B2165, and keep forward at the next junction on a minor road to Bodiam Castle.
Bodiam Castle (NT) is an almost unfailing hit with children, a fairy-tale fortress surrounded by a water-filled moat and with its walls and drum towers rising virtually to their original height and spiral staircases and battlements to explore. It's an outstanding example of 14th-century fortification, and the lawns around it make an ideal place for picnics. There are quiz sheets for children, as well as numerous special events.
Also from here the Kent and East Sussex Railway runs steam trains through pastoral countryside to Tenterden for most of the year (not winter); for timetable phone (01580) 765155. Tenterden itself is a most appealing destination with its wide grass verge main street lined with weatherboarded houses, rather reminiscent of a New England village.
Carry on south on the minor road past Bodiam railway station and then fork left at successive junctions on back roads to Northiam.
On the edge of the village, Great Dixter is one of the great gardens of the Weald, ranged around a timbered 15th-century house restored and added to by Edwin Lutyens during the early 20th century. Lutyens designed the gardens too, and they've since been remodelled by the gardening writer Christopher Lloyd who lives here. It's not on a huge scale but done with extraordinary flair, arranged in a set of distinct areas like outdoor rooms.
Carry on along the A28 then turn right on the A268 to Rye.
