A weekend in Copenhagen
By Fiona Ferrer
Copenhagen is a vibrant, colourful city with all the ingredients for the perfect weekend break – design, culture, shopping, great restaurants and a stunning water-front.
It's full of laidback charm so explore the streets and waterways, relax in cafes, take your time over dinners and soak up the atmosphere for a true local experience.
What to see
Nyhavn is the heart of Copenhagen’s tourist area. Part of the original 12th century harbour, it is now a buzzing area for eating, drinking and watching the world go by. Old wooden boats are moored up along the quay walls overlooked by beautiful 18th century houses.
Look out for: Hans Christian Andersen’s house.
Christianshavn has a gentle, residential feel. The canal cuts through the small district lined with a mix of beautiful, colourful 18th century houses and cool modern apartments. Eccentric house boats and smart yachts are moored up along the canal and pretty cafes are dotted along the waterside.
Christianshavn’s most visible building is the Vor Frelsers Kirke or Church of Our Saviour built in the 1680s. Its distinctive twisted spire was added in the middle of the 18th century and, for those with a good head for heights, has an outside staircase which winds its way to the top.
Christiania is a ‘freetown’ in the heart of the Christianshavn district. In 1971 a group of hippies commandeered an abandoned military barracks and established their own community, governed by their own rules. Their four unbreakable rules are: no hard drugs, rocker badges, weapons or violence.
Today Christiania has around 1000 permanent residents and a million visitors per year. Paths wind their way around the 85 acres of pretty, well-maintained houses with lush gardens, functioning workshops, clothing swap points and little cafes. No cars are allowed in and residents get around on foot or bikes.
The bar area of Christiania feels stereotypically hippie, not least because of the dealers openly selling cannabis (it’s legal here), but on the whole Christiania has a tranquil, harmonious atmosphere and is a lovely place to wander around.
Modern architecture and design
Denmark is synonymous with iconic design from stunning architecture to furniture, clothes and jewellery. Think Arne Jacobsen, Poul Henningsen, Royal Copenhagen, Georg Jensen, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Bang & Olufsen and that’s just the start of the list.
Don’t miss: the Opera House, having a cup of tea and a Danish pastry at the play house, the royal palace, The Black Diamond (the library) and pop into the Radisson SAS Royal Hotel near Tivoli Gardens to see Arne Jacobsen’s original designs.
Copenhagen from the water
One of the best ways to see Denmark’s architecture is from the water. Jump on the DFDS canal tour from the top of Nyhavn and take a trip around the waterways of Copenhagen.
Traditional architecture, modern designs, the little mermaid, quirky houseboats, low bridges, wind turbines….all drift gently past. It’s a relaxing way to spend an hour and gives a great feel for the essence of the city.
Getting around
The city is small enough to explore in a weekend so when in Copenhagen do as the Copenhageners do…jump on a bike and buzz around. With a free bicycle scheme in operation between April and September just help yourself to a bike and enjoy the luxury of proper cycle lanes, no hills and pretty areas to get lost in.
Prices
Copenhagen is not the cheapest city to visit with bar and restaurant prices being comparable with London. You won’t find any major bargains here (other than at the flea markets) but what you will find is fabulously designed bits and pieces from home wares to fashion that you won’t find at home. And that’s got to be worth paying a bit of a premium for.
