Riyadh City Guide - overview

Rising from the barren desert, its towering skyscrapers glittering in the fierce sun, the Saudi Arabian capital, Riyadh, is one of the most splendid and rich cities in the modern world, sprawling across about 600 square miles (1,600 square kilometres) in the heart of the Arabian Peninsula.

Once a small oasis known for its date orchards (hence the origin of its name which in Arabic means 'place of gardens'), Riyadh's phenomenal growth spurt began in 1902 when the desert lord Ibn Saud took over the city determined to turn it into the centre of his Arabic kingdom. Thirty years later it became the capital of the new country of Saudi Arabia, and fuelled by the revenue of the country's abundant oil fields, it has burgeoned into an awesome modern metropolis with a population well in excess of four million.

Modern it may be, but visitors to Riyadh are never likely to forget that they are in the heart of the Arab world. In between the towering, futuristic buildings, glitzy shopping malls and broad, sweeping highways are nestled ancient mosques and other remnants of times gone by, shady trees and date palms line the avenues, and camels sometimes sway between the luxury vehicles. The city is also run on a strictly Islamic moral and cultural code, and visitors should respect the rules while exploring the sights, both ancient and modern, in this fascinating city. Women have restricted access to certain attractions and sites.

The original 'wadis' (dry river beds), where wells were sunk to water the historic infant oasis settlement, have now been supplemented by numerous vast dams and piped in desalinated seawater to adequately quench the thirst of this prosperous capital, quite justly dubbed 'Queen of the Desert'. Travellers can therefore drink deeply of this unique urban landscape, which will not be found wanting in both historic interest and modern wonder.

Getting around: Public transport is available to a limited degree, consisting of minibuses, which ply a few routes and usually operate for men only. Buses that do admit women have a screened off area, separating them from the men. A better option for visitors, though, are taxis (white in colour), which can be booked through the hotel or hired directly from an amenable driver. Fares are reasonable and the taxis are metered. Car hire is also possible, but driving can be a little daunting, despite the deceptively easy-looking wide roads. Directional road signs tend to have English translations, but street signs are in Arabic only. Some traffic rules differ from those in the west, and penalties for speeding or reckless driving are severe.