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Why go now
In May the Swedish capital comes back to life after its long winter hibernation. The moment the sun is shining, locals pack the terraces of cafes and restaurants. And during the Taste of Stockholm Festival (4-8 June) you can sample the best of Nordic cuisine, with Stockholm's top eateries dishing out 200 of their creations in Kungsträdgården, a trendy square in the city centre (smakapastockholm.se).
Checking in
Those on a budget will love the Red Boat, a hostel anchored right in the heart of Stockholm (00 46 8 644 4385; theredboat.com; doubles from £50). The mid-range Birger Jarl hotel is a fun, Nordic-designed hotel (00 46 8 674 1800; birgerjarl.se; doubles from £108). If you want to blow the mortgage, do it at the elegant Grand Hotel, which has beautiful views over Stockholm's harbour (00 46 8 679 3560; grandhotel.se; doubles £325).
Coffee break
Rest your weary feet at the cute Chokladkoppen (Stortorget 20) or Café Skeppet (Österlånggatan 9), both in Gamla Stan. Starbucks-haters rejoice: the US chain has no outlets in Sweden.
Hit the streets
Wander the charming streets of the old town, Gamla Stan, and cross the bridge to Södermalm, one of the hippest areas in the city, and then move on to leafy Djurgården island. From there you can explore Stockholm by water, by renting a kayak, canoe or a pedalo from the unpronounceable Djugårdsbrons Sjöcafé (Galärvarvsvägen 2).
On Midsummer's Day (21 June), Swedish children will dance around maypoles while their parents gobble herring and guzzle beer and schnapps. You can join in the celebrations at the Skansen open air museum and zoo (skansen.se) on Djurgården island from 20-22 June.
Neighbourhood watch
Södermalm, traditionally a working-class district to the south of Gamla Stan, has transformed into a hang-out for style-conscious Swedes - giving the streets an eclectically glamorous feel. The area has gorgeous architecture, too.
Worked up an appetite?