Cymru comes of age

Family holidays in Wales in the late 70s were built on low expectations: a walk down the prom in Llandudno, a toasted teacake in a café on Mostyn Street and a night in a monotone B&B on a camp bed with musty sheets. The highlight of these early childhood holidays was a game of pitch and put followed by a 99 Flake.

I've been back in Wales a lot over this last year and, during the time I've been away, Wales has seriously got its act together. Sure, standards across the whole of the UK tourism industry have been raised in recent years, but can anywhere beat Wales for its transformation from blue rinse and love spoons to luxury boltholes and adventure sports over the last 10 years?

The revelation first struck me while researching the new edition of the Lonely Planet Wales guide. I spent three months rediscovering places from my childhood: Portmeirion, Llangollen, Beaumaris. They were oddly familiar, yet more sophisticated, with better places to eat and stay.

Then, off the back of the book, I was asked to judge the National Tourism Awards for Wales and spent a frenetic August criss-crossing Wales from St David's to Colwyn Bay, personally visiting the finalists in 10 categories.

What did I find? Unabashedly chic boutique hotels; fantastic local, often organic, produce; a friendly welcome backed with excellent customer service; and, perhaps, most of all, a strong grasp of green issues and the importance of ecotourism.

You could have knocked me down with a daffodil. Since those early forays across the border from Chester as a small boy, Wales really had changed beyond all recognition. Perhaps that's why overseas tourists made over 1.1m trips to Wales in 2006, according to the latest figures from the Welsh Assembly Government.

In judging the awards, my brief was to uncover the very best that Wales has to offer. It was a really tough task but, after much consideration, I chose my winners.

Take the two luxurious properties owned by Anne Owen Taylor of West Wales Holidays in the self-catering category. The fact we spent over half an hour debating the merits of Hungarian goose down as a pillow stuffing says it all. The irony that we did so over mugs of stewed tea in a Little Chef at the bottom of the A20 was not lost on either of us.

In the "Gold Star Accommodation - Hotel" category, Ynyshir Hall in Mid Wales, had superb food, country-house charm and rooms individually decorated in the style of famous artists - mine was the Matisse. The Old Vicarage, near Presteigne, meanwhile, stood out in the "Gold Star - Guest Accommodation" category for its opulent design, gracious hosts and nightly dinner party with the best in fresh, local food.

Finally, Eco Retreats, an encampment of

American Indian-style tepees and a Mongolian yurt near Machynlleth, captured the spirit of green Wales. In fact, some visitors are so taken with the back-to-nature vibe, they end up stripping naked and wandering through the forest.

Me? I did manage to keep my clothes on, but was bowled over by the way Wales has come of age as a destination. So much so I'm now taking my own 18-month-old daughter on her first childhood holiday to Wales.

The judging is over and the gongs were dished out at last night's awards ceremony, but maybe you disagree with my - I might well use some of your suggestions in my next guidebook.