SEIZED MICRA CLUTCH
Q: My daughter's 1995 Nissan Micra has been sat idle for eight months on my drive (wasted birthday present). Recently I went to move the car and it started fine, but I could not (and still can't) engage a gear. The clutch pedal feels okay but the vehicle acts as if the clutch pedal has not been depressed.
With the engine at rest I can engage a gear, but then, with the clutch pedal held down, when I try to start the car it jumps forward, as if the clutch isn't working at all. Could the clutch be seized through lack of use? Posted by: Simon Sibey
A: It sounds very much as if the clutch driven plate has seized to the flywheel (over a long period, dampness plays its part, causing corrosion to form between the two components). This can happen with any car left standing for a while. There are several possible ways of freeing the clutch, depending on how lucky you are... First, start the engine and run it until it is at normal operating temperature (probably about 10-15 minutes at idle). The heat generated within the engine will percolate through to the flywheel and may help to free the clutch.
Now make sure that there is plenty of unobstructed, horizontal driveway ahead of the car, and with the engine stopped, engage first gear. Fully depress the clutch pedal and keep holding it down, take off the handbrake and start the engine. The car will move forward as the engine starts, so be prepared for this. After a few yards, brake firmly with your right foot, while still holding down the clutch pedal. The 'shock' should help to dislodge the driven plate from the flywheel, but you may need several attempts. (You do need to be aware that of course this does place some extra strain on the drivetrain components, but the alternative is to remove the gearbox and clutch). If this method doesn't work, unfortunately the gearbox will have to be removed from the car and the clutch driven plate physically separated from the flywheel. On no account attempt to 'ram' the gear lever into the first gear position to engage the gear while the engine is running, as you will seriously damage the gearbox (as well as, possibly, the driveshafts and differential). Good luck!
OIL IN TROUBLED WATERS (CITROEN AX)
Q: There is oil in the engine coolant tank on my Citroen AX. What could be the cause? Posted by: Mark
A: Almost certainly the cylinder head gasket has failed, allowing the oil and coolant to inter-mix; the AX engines were prone to this problem. The answer is to remove the cylinder head and fit a new gasket. The job is not as bad as it sounds, and could be carried out at home with the aid of a 'do-it-yourself' workshop manual; allow a whole day.
To avoid further damage, run the engine as little as possible until the remedial work can be carried out.
When the cylinder head has been removed from the engine, have the surface of the head (in particular) and the cylinder block checked to ensure that no warping has occurred; this is vitally important. As a very approximate guide, an engineer's steel rule can be used as a suitable 'straightedge'. Place the edge of the rule against the surface of the head and block in turn, and ensure that there are no visible gaps between the rule and the surface being assessed.
If the surface of the head or block has already warped, you will need to engage the services of an engineering shop to skim the surface(s) flat again (otherwise the new head gasket will fail early). Only the minimum amount of metal necessary should be removed (or the compression ratio will be adversely increased).
If you don't feel confident about tackling the gasket change, you will need to engage a garage to do the work for you.
CREAKY VOLVO
Q: I have a Volvo V40 and the clutch keeps creaking when the pedal is pushed, even though the hydraulic fluid level is normal. What do you think is causing this and what can I do to make it stop? Posted by: Eva
A: From your description it sounds as if the problem may be due to the clutch pedal pivot making a noise as the pedal is depressed. The answer is to lubricate the pivot; a few drops of engine oil should do the trick; apply using an oil can to the pivot. Don't flood the area with oil or it will leak everywhere; apply sparingly. Make sure that the oil doesn't drip onto the carpet (it's wise to place some rag on the floor before you start, and to wipe off excess lubricant after application). To prevent a recurrence of the noise, re-lubricate the pivot every six months or so.
SQUEAKING ESCORT
Q: My 1997 Ford Escort makes a squeaking noise when I turn corners and drive over bumps; the sound is loudest from the front driver's side wheel area. What could be the cause? Posted by: E. Harrison
A: Noises such as this are often traced to the various rubber mounting bushes in the steering and suspension systems. Often the squeaking sounds are more prevalent following a wet spell; when the rain stops and the bushes dry out, the squeaking starts. However, the noises could also be caused by worn bushes, allowing 'metal to metal' contact between components; this needs to be investigated urgently, and any ailing parts replaced (in axle sets). If the bushes seem to be in good condition, try applying a rubber/nylon lubricant; this is available from motor accessory shops in aerosol form, and is useful for a multitude of other tasks too.
SLIPPING CLUTCH
Q: As I was driving to work my car started playing up. When pushing in the clutch to change gear, the engine revved more than usual. The revs returned to normal levels once the clutch was let out. I had a new clutch installed about six months ago. Can it be the clutch again? Please help. Cheers. Posted by: Katie Hudson
A: Unless the clutch and/or the operating mechanism is faulty, it is unusual for a clutch assembly to wear out in just six months, although this can happen (depending on the mileage covered in that time and the driving style adopted), especially if anyone driving the car has been doing so with their left foot resting on the clutch pedal. However, there are more likely possibilities; When the clutch was replaced, was a complete assembly installed (release bearing, driven plate and pressure plate assembly) or just the driven plate? It is always best to have all three components renewed at the same time; it is usually a false economy to have just the driven plate renewed. Sometimes the old pressure plate assembly will be weak, allowing the clutch plate to slip, giving the symptoms you describe. You do not say which make and model you drive, but there could be a fault with the clutch operating mechanism, rather than the clutch itself. If the car has a mechanical operating system, it could be incorrectly adjusted, or if it relies on a cable, this too could be mal-adjusted or stretched, or in the case of a hydraulic clutch operating mechanism, a piston could be sticking in the master cylinder or slave cylinder. In the first instance we would advise taking the car back to whoever changed the clutch, and ask for their opinion. In any event try to get it fixed as soon as possible, as further damage will be caused by the clutch slipping (the flywheel could be damaged, and this will be expensive to renew or have skimmed.
INOPERATIVE PEUGEOT SCREEN WASHERS
Q: My car is a Peugeot 307LX; the screen wipers work, but no water comes out of the jets, and the motor doesn't make a noise. Can you please help? Posted by: Jenny Lucas
A: If you haven't done so already, double check that the screenwash reservoir is not empty; if the level is low, top it up and try again. Assuming that the washer reservoir contains plenty of water/screenwash fluid, make sure that the washer jets are not blocked. Sometimes they can be clogged by minute pieces of dirt, or car polish. GENTLY probing with a short length of tough, fine wire will usually unclog blocked screenwash jets. Check too that the electrical cables to the motor are intact and properly connected. It could just be that a poor or broken electrical connection is causing the trouble. Alternatively, the motor may be at fault (this is probably the least likely scenario). To confirm this you will need to have the circuit checked by an auto electrician.
NO GO SPEEDO
Q: My speedometer and mileage counter refuse to operate, although the rev counter, temperature gauge and fuel gauge all work fine. Is there a simple solution to this please, without having to buy a new unit? Thank you. Posted by: Kathryn Reeves
A: Depending on the vehicle, its speedometer/mileage counter will be operated physically by a steel cable, or electronically. If the unit is cable-driven, it is likely that the cable has broken (or possibly the speedometer assembly has failed, although this is less likely). Replacement of a broken cable should not be too expensive or difficult for a garage (although usually the car will have to be put on a ramp in order for the lower end of the cable to be reached (it's connected at the gearbox). If your car has an electronically operated speedometer/mileage counter, things may be more complicated, but the problem usually lies with senders and electrical connections, rather than the speedometer itself.
HANDBRAKE WARNING LAMP
Q: When driving my Peugeot 206, every now and again the handbrake light will illuminate, along with the light that says 'Stop'. Why is this? Posted by: Steph
A: This sort of problem is difficult to diagnose precisely without examining the vehicle. However, it is possible that the handbrake operating linkage is seizing or partially seizing, or that the handbrake lever is not fully releasing, or there may be another fault with the brake system. In any event you need to get the vehicle checked immediately, in case there's a serious problem with the brakes.
FIESTA - HIGH EMISSIONS LEVELS
Q: My 1.1 litre Mark 2 Ford Fiesta has failed the MoT test due to 'high emissions levels'. How do I sort this out in order to get the car through the MoT? Posted by: Richard
A: Unfortunately this is a common problem with this model, but assuming that the engine is in good mechanical condition there are several steps you can take to bring down the emissions levels to comply with the MoT test requirements. 1. Check the condition of the air filter; unless it is visibly very clean, fit a new one. 2. Check the condition of the spark plugs (if worn, fit a new set), distributor cap and high tension leads, plus the rotor arm - renew any ailing components. 3. Check to ensure that all engine breathers are clean and that all the pipework is unobstructed. 4. Clean the carburettor venturi with a carburettor cleaner (available in aerosol form from garages/car accessory outlets). 5. Ensure that the choke is not sticking partially closed. 6. Use a fuel system cleaning agent; this is added to the petrol. 7. Change the engine oil and filter; once the old oil has been drained, flush out the system with a reputable flushing agent. 8. Make sure that a thermostat is fitted and operating as designed (the engine needs to run at optimum temperature in order for emissions to be at their lowest levels). 9. On the way to the MoT station, if possible and safe to do so, run the engine at high speed to help purge the system (and to fully warm the engine and the catalytic converter to optimum operating temperature). Hopefully the car will now pass; if not, the basic state of the engine then needs to be assessed. Once the emission levels have been lowered, you should find that the car is more lively and more economical on fuel - probably by up to 10 per cent or so!
LEAKING WINDSCREEN
Q: My car's windscreen is leaking from the top corner on the driver's side. Can I repair it with an adhesive without having to replace the full windscreen seal? Posted by: Kenny Gap
A: If the seal is only leaking in one corner you should be able to repair it effectively. First make sure that the area of bodywork behind the rubber seal is clean, dry and free of rust (if there are major holes here this won't help, of course; in this case the screen needs to be removed and the rust attended to by welding in new steel). Apply a mastic product designed for windscreen seal use, alternatively black silicone rubber (both available in tubes, from car accessory shops). The sealant should be applied sparingly between the car's bodywork and the matching part of the rubber seal, paying special attention to any uneven areas. Smooth off the repair using a soft cloth; excess sealant can be wiped off using white spirit (for mastic) or spirit wipe (for silicone sealant); don't use cellulose thinners or the paintwork will be seriously damaged. If possible, allow the product to fully dry (ideally overnight) before exposing the vehicle to moisture.
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If the surface of the head or block has already warped, you will need to engage the services of an engineering shop to skim the surface(s) flat again (otherwise the new head gasket will fail early). Only the minimum amount of metal necessary should be removed (or the compression ratio will be adversely increased).
If you don't feel confident about tackling the gasket change, you will need to engage a garage to do the work for you.
CREAKY VOLVO
Q: I have a Volvo V40 and the clutch keeps creaking when the pedal is pushed, even though the hydraulic fluid level is normal. What do you think is causing this and what can I do to make it stop? Posted by: Eva
A: From your description it sounds as if the problem may be due to the clutch pedal pivot making a noise as the pedal is depressed. The answer is to lubricate the pivot; a few drops of engine oil should do the trick; apply using an oil can to the pivot. Don't flood the area with oil or it will leak everywhere; apply sparingly. Make sure that the oil doesn't drip onto the carpet (it's wise to place some rag on the floor before you start, and to wipe off excess lubricant after application). To prevent a recurrence of the noise, re-lubricate the pivot every six months or so.
SQUEAKING ESCORT
Q: My 1997 Ford Escort makes a squeaking noise when I turn corners and drive over bumps; the sound is loudest from the front driver's side wheel area. What could be the cause? Posted by: E. Harrison
A: Noises such as this are often traced to the various rubber mounting bushes in the steering and suspension systems. Often the squeaking sounds are more prevalent following a wet spell; when the rain stops and the bushes dry out, the squeaking starts. However, the noises could also be caused by worn bushes, allowing 'metal to metal' contact between components; this needs to be investigated urgently, and any ailing parts replaced (in axle sets). If the bushes seem to be in good condition, try applying a rubber/nylon lubricant; this is available from motor accessory shops in aerosol form, and is useful for a multitude of other tasks too.
SLIPPING CLUTCH
Q: As I was driving to work my car started playing up. When pushing in the clutch to change gear, the engine revved more than usual. The revs returned to normal levels once the clutch was let out. I had a new clutch installed about six months ago. Can it be the clutch again? Please help. Cheers. Posted by: Katie Hudson
A: Unless the clutch and/or the operating mechanism is faulty, it is unusual for a clutch assembly to wear out in just six months, although this can happen (depending on the mileage covered in that time and the driving style adopted), especially if anyone driving the car has been doing so with their left foot resting on the clutch pedal. However, there are more likely possibilities; When the clutch was replaced, was a complete assembly installed (release bearing, driven plate and pressure plate assembly) or just the driven plate? It is always best to have all three components renewed at the same time; it is usually a false economy to have just the driven plate renewed. Sometimes the old pressure plate assembly will be weak, allowing the clutch plate to slip, giving the symptoms you describe. You do not say which make and model you drive, but there could be a fault with the clutch operating mechanism, rather than the clutch itself. If the car has a mechanical operating system, it could be incorrectly adjusted, or if it relies on a cable, this too could be mal-adjusted or stretched, or in the case of a hydraulic clutch operating mechanism, a piston could be sticking in the master cylinder or slave cylinder. In the first instance we would advise taking the car back to whoever changed the clutch, and ask for their opinion. In any event try to get it fixed as soon as possible, as further damage will be caused by the clutch slipping (the flywheel could be damaged, and this will be expensive to renew or have skimmed.
INOPERATIVE PEUGEOT SCREEN WASHERS
Q: My car is a Peugeot 307LX; the screen wipers work, but no water comes out of the jets, and the motor doesn't make a noise. Can you please help? Posted by: Jenny Lucas
A: If you haven't done so already, double check that the screenwash reservoir is not empty; if the level is low, top it up and try again. Assuming that the washer reservoir contains plenty of water/screenwash fluid, make sure that the washer jets are not blocked. Sometimes they can be clogged by minute pieces of dirt, or car polish. GENTLY probing with a short length of tough, fine wire will usually unclog blocked screenwash jets. Check too that the electrical cables to the motor are intact and properly connected. It could just be that a poor or broken electrical connection is causing the trouble. Alternatively, the motor may be at fault (this is probably the least likely scenario). To confirm this you will need to have the circuit checked by an auto electrician.
NO GO SPEEDO
Q: My speedometer and mileage counter refuse to operate, although the rev counter, temperature gauge and fuel gauge all work fine. Is there a simple solution to this please, without having to buy a new unit? Thank you. Posted by: Kathryn Reeves
A: Depending on the vehicle, its speedometer/mileage counter will be operated physically by a steel cable, or electronically. If the unit is cable-driven, it is likely that the cable has broken (or possibly the speedometer assembly has failed, although this is less likely). Replacement of a broken cable should not be too expensive or difficult for a garage (although usually the car will have to be put on a ramp in order for the lower end of the cable to be reached (it's connected at the gearbox). If your car has an electronically operated speedometer/mileage counter, things may be more complicated, but the problem usually lies with senders and electrical connections, rather than the speedometer itself.
HANDBRAKE WARNING LAMP
Q: When driving my Peugeot 206, every now and again the handbrake light will illuminate, along with the light that says 'Stop'. Why is this? Posted by: Steph
A: This sort of problem is difficult to diagnose precisely without examining the vehicle. However, it is possible that the handbrake operating linkage is seizing or partially seizing, or that the handbrake lever is not fully releasing, or there may be another fault with the brake system. In any event you need to get the vehicle checked immediately, in case there's a serious problem with the brakes.
FIESTA - HIGH EMISSIONS LEVELS
Q: My 1.1 litre Mark 2 Ford Fiesta has failed the MoT test due to 'high emissions levels'. How do I sort this out in order to get the car through the MoT? Posted by: Richard
A: Unfortunately this is a common problem with this model, but assuming that the engine is in good mechanical condition there are several steps you can take to bring down the emissions levels to comply with the MoT test requirements. 1. Check the condition of the air filter; unless it is visibly very clean, fit a new one. 2. Check the condition of the spark plugs (if worn, fit a new set), distributor cap and high tension leads, plus the rotor arm - renew any ailing components. 3. Check to ensure that all engine breathers are clean and that all the pipework is unobstructed. 4. Clean the carburettor venturi with a carburettor cleaner (available in aerosol form from garages/car accessory outlets). 5. Ensure that the choke is not sticking partially closed. 6. Use a fuel system cleaning agent; this is added to the petrol. 7. Change the engine oil and filter; once the old oil has been drained, flush out the system with a reputable flushing agent. 8. Make sure that a thermostat is fitted and operating as designed (the engine needs to run at optimum temperature in order for emissions to be at their lowest levels). 9. On the way to the MoT station, if possible and safe to do so, run the engine at high speed to help purge the system (and to fully warm the engine and the catalytic converter to optimum operating temperature). Hopefully the car will now pass; if not, the basic state of the engine then needs to be assessed. Once the emission levels have been lowered, you should find that the car is more lively and more economical on fuel - probably by up to 10 per cent or so!
LEAKING WINDSCREEN
Q: My car's windscreen is leaking from the top corner on the driver's side. Can I repair it with an adhesive without having to replace the full windscreen seal? Posted by: Kenny Gap
A: If the seal is only leaking in one corner you should be able to repair it effectively. First make sure that the area of bodywork behind the rubber seal is clean, dry and free of rust (if there are major holes here this won't help, of course; in this case the screen needs to be removed and the rust attended to by welding in new steel). Apply a mastic product designed for windscreen seal use, alternatively black silicone rubber (both available in tubes, from car accessory shops). The sealant should be applied sparingly between the car's bodywork and the matching part of the rubber seal, paying special attention to any uneven areas. Smooth off the repair using a soft cloth; excess sealant can be wiped off using white spirit (for mastic) or spirit wipe (for silicone sealant); don't use cellulose thinners or the paintwork will be seriously damaged. If possible, allow the product to fully dry (ideally overnight) before exposing the vehicle to moisture.
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