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Ask a mechanic - 11/04/07

Car Mechanic - your answers

You can find the answers below to your mechanic questions - click on the next page link to see more answers. To submit your questions click here

FOREARMED IS FOREWARNED
Q: There is brake fluid leaking from my Fiat Punto 1.9 diesel and I've been told it looks like the pipe has burst. Is this expensive to get fixed? I'd like to know in advance because I always feel I'm being ripped off by garages. Posted by: Kirsteen_2004

A: At a guess it should take a couple of hours to replace the pipe and bleed the system, and replacement piping won't be very expensive. Ask for the repairing garage's hourly labour rate before you get a quote.

BOXING NOT VERY CLEVER
Q: I have a 54-reg Ford mondeo ST220. When driving at 20-70mph it won't let me change down any gears - the lever wants to stay in neutral. The gears can be a bit clunky going up the box but will always select. The clutch feels normal and isn't slipping. Any ideas? Posted by: djjut

A: The clutch might not be slipping, but it could be failing to fully disengage, making it difficult or even impossible to change gears - particularly when going down the ratios. So get the clutch checked out, and if it's okay, have the external 'box linkages inspected before suspecting the worst: an internal gearbox fault. .

THE ANSWER LIES BENEATH
Q: There is a metallic noise like a loose fitting rattling around when driving my Rover 75 over bumps in the road. What could be causing this? Posted by: Johnneeds

A: Any one of a host of things, but the most likely is a loose exhaust system or exhaust system clamp. Get a mechanic to raise the car and have a good look underneath.

LEVER BUSH COULD BE TO BLAME
Q: My 2003 Vauxhall Corsa has just lost reverse gear. The other gears seem fine except that the gear lever is very sloppy. Is this likely to be a simple linkage problem or a gearbox-overhaul scenario? Posted by: allanbri

A: It is more likely to be a fault with the external gearbox linkages from the selector lever to the box, so get them inspected. Failing that, and assuming the clutch is disengaging fully, there may be a broken bush at the gear lever bottom joint, or otherwise you're looking at an internal gearbox problem.

OLFACTORY DIAGNOSIS REQUIRED
Q: I have a 1995 Renault Espace 2.9 automatic which will reverse but won't move in any forward gear. I have changed the gearbox oil, which was very dark; a warning light had been coming on before the oil change, but stays off now. Posted by: Simon1850

A: A Check the transmission fluid level when hot; if there's insufficient, that could be your answer. However, from your description of dark fluid I'm going to hazard a guess that the transmission has at some stage overheated, causing a clutch or band to burn out. If the fluid smells burnt that pretty well confirms it.

SHOCKER KNOCKER
Q: I have a knocking noise that seems to be coming from the rear of my Vauxhall Vectra. Could this be a dropped arm link? Posted by: ian.duncombe

A: I don't know what you mean by 'a dropped arm link', but if there's a knocking manifesting itself as you drive over broken surfaces and minor bumps at low speed, the most likely cause is a loose or worn shock absorber or a deteriorated shock absorber mounting bush. Any other knocking could be incidental and caused by a loose or misaligned component such as the exhaust system.

WHY WOULD YOU?
Q: Can you convert a turbodiesel to a non-turbodiesel easily? Posted by: Benbailey

A: I can't imagine why you ask, but the answer is yes, by disabling the turbocharger. Depending on the car, this can usually be done by jamming the turbocharger wastegate unit in the open position, so that exhaust gases bypass the turbo and it doesn't get driven. But performance will be poor, and the car's gearing will then be effectively too tall for it.

SHOULDN'T HAVE TOUCHED IT
Q: I have a Ford Fiesta diesel van on which I've changed the heater plugs and fuel solenoid. Now, though, the engine will not start. Can you help? Posted by: Gigglesj

A: Assuming the fuel solenoid and heater plugs are correctly fitted, it's possible that you've introduced air into the injection pump, and an air lock is preventing fuel from being drawn into the pump and filling it. If that's the case, and there is a hand primer on the fuel filter or fuel supply hose under the bonnet, prime this until it goes hard - that should be enough to fill the injection pump. Failing that, you may have blown a fuse on the engine heater plugs circuit or the pump solenoid circuit.

ALL SHOW BUT NO GO
Q: It feels as if the clutch cable has snapped on my Land Rover Freelander. I place it in gear and nothing happens at all - no movement from the car itself. However, the clutch pedal is still stiff. Any ideas? Posted by: webmastersfc

A: What makes you think the clutch cable has snapped? If it had, the pedal would show no resistance underfoot. If the car won't drive it's either because the gear is NOT selecting, or because the clutch is stuck in the disengaged position. A mechanic should be able to diagnose this very quickly.

GRINDING ITS WAY ROUND BENDS
Q: I have a Peugeot 206 which has recently developed a sort of grinding noise when the steering is turned while driving at low speed. The power steering fluid level is okay and the car was serviced two months ago. Posted by: Cjb.cartmel

A: This is difficult to diagnose without hearing the noise, but it could be wear of the power steering pump, accentuated by increased loading when you turn the steering. Alternatively, it could be a worn driveshaft joint, which will make a 'scrabbling'/grinding noise at low speed on full steering lock.

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