MY FALTERING DEUTSCHLANDER
Q: The idle speed of my 1997 four-cylinder petrol Mercedes-Benz is much too low and when the transmission is in Drive it often stalls. I've changed the fuel filter; air filter and PCV valve. I've fitted new spark plugs and leads, and the ignition coil is quite new. There are no codes coming up on the computer and the engine warning light is off. I'm lost... can you help? Posted by: nieko6
A: Might it simply be too low an idle setting? If this isn't screw-adjustable, then a mechanic should be able to tweak it, so take the car to a workshop. Otherwise, one likely cause for this symptom is an induction-system air leak, so check all joints and vacuum pipes.
LEAVE IT TO MR SPARKY
Q: I have a Mitsubishi Pajero 2.5 diesel automatic. The AT, oil and battery warning lights are illuminating intermittently, and don't always go out when the engine is revved. Is this necessarily an alternator problem? Posted by: sally-bob
A: No it isn't, necessarily. It's most likely a wiring/connection fault, but rather than waste hours trying to trace it yourself, take the car to an auto-electrician for a quick, professional diagnosis.
KEEN TO GET GREASY
Q: I am 14 years old and I desperately want to be a car mechanic. Can you please give me some advice on how to go about getting into this field of work? Posted by: dragonbot13
A: Well, the best starting point is your careers advisor at school; believe it or not, some of these guys actually know stuff and can be helpful! Most major cities have a college that runs automotive training courses, but without knowing which county you're in I can't be specific. For the time being, concentrate at school on your science and maths: you'll be needing them.
A TRANSPLANT MADE IN HELL
Q: Can you tell me if an engine from a Renault Traffic van (it's a 1.9 diesel) will fit into a 1986 Mitsubishi Shogun? I'm seriously thinking of doing a conversion. Posted by: richh60
A: No, I can't tell you if it will fit. In fact the only person who could tell you is somebody who happens to have already tried such a transplant, and I suspect they're thin on the ground. My best advice is that you DON'T even attempt this. If you're intent on running a diesel Shogun there are plenty of later models around that fit the bill without you having to suffer the sure misery of making the wrong bits fit.
THE OLD DEAR HAS STIFF JOINTS
Q: I have a rather old (1995) Ford Fiesta. The steering has suddenly started feeling very strange when driving, i.e. stiff for the first part of a turn, then normal after that. Do you have any idea what could be causing this? Posted by: alan.hollis
A: There's a lengthy list of possibilities, including: a partially seized balljoint, either on the steering rack assembly or at the suspension bottom arm, damage to the steering rack teeth and/or pinion (not too likely), insufficient grease at the rack damping slipper, and a problem with the suspension-strut top mounting. But before having a mechanic check all these, make sure you haven't got some carpeting bunched up around the base of the steering column!
ROVER CAN'T TAKE THE HEAT
Q: I have a 1993 Rover 620 petrol (non-turbo). When the engine is hot and I turn it off, sometimes it just won't start again until I've left it to cool down for about five minutes. I've changed the ignition distributor and coil, but to no avail. Posted by: eecropredypt
A: This could be an overheating problem affecting any of the ignition-system components, including the ignition ECU (main control unit). But it could also be a problem of fuel vaporisation due to heat soak - maybe due to a missing heat shield. Your best bet is to leave it with a garage for a day.
BRUTAL REALITY OF MOTORING EXPENSE
Q: My four-year-old, 34,000-mile Renault Clio has just had a service at which costly major faults were found. These include the need for a new driveshaft (£460) and new brake discs and pads (£226). I've had a half-price quote from a non-Renault garage. Would you expect these jobs to be needed on a car this young? Posted by: sally.brooks1
A: If they are genuinely needed, that's fair enough. If you're not convinced they are, get a second opinion from another garage. All it takes to wreck a driveshaft is CV-joint gaiter split by a sharp stone. As for brakes, it's not uncommon to need new discs at this mileage, and they need new pads. As you're out of warranty you may as well go with the cheaper garage, providing it's reputable.
HONDA DRIVER ALL AT SEA
Q: I have recently acquired a Honda Concerto 1.6 16v. When starting it up, the ABS light comes on, then goes out as it should. But after a few minutes of driving it comes back on and stays on. I believe this is a common fault, but I can't find a starting point for diagnosis. What is the most likely cause? Posted by: craigjohnstone933
A: With this sort of fault there's only one starting point: a Honda dealer. That's because the ABS system is supremely complicated, and without the necessary electronic diagnostic equipment, I'm afraid you're all at sea.
USED PARTS A COMPLEX OPTION
Q: I have a year-2000 Vauxhall Vectra 2.0 Di. It broke down recently and the roadside rescue mechanic informed me that it will be needing a new fuel pump. In view of the eye-watering cost of one of these, would a second-hand pump need coding to the car's computer system? Posted by: doop037
A: I'm not sure what you mean by that. Firstly establish why he thinks you need a new pump. If the car is still working, take it to a Vauxhall dealer or Bosch agency for a second opinion. Going for a used injection pump is tricky, as you really need to find one with exactly the same part number as yours. If you can't find the exact number, you should really source pump, injectors, looms and electronic management all together.
THE SMELL OF OIL IN THE MORNING
Q: When I'm driving my Fiat Brava 1.9 turbodiesel there's a very strong smell of engine oil coming in though the car's air vents. Can you suggest why this might be? Posted by: kristofer
A: There are two possibilities here. The first is an engine oil leak - maybe oil is dripping onto a hot component and burning. It should be easy enough to see if there's a leak. The second is that you're smelling oil vapour from the crankcase breather system, due either to blockage and over-pressurisation of the system, or to a split or detached pipe.
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ROVER CAN'T TAKE THE HEAT
Q: I have a 1993 Rover 620 petrol (non-turbo). When the engine is hot and I turn it off, sometimes it just won't start again until I've left it to cool down for about five minutes. I've changed the ignition distributor and coil, but to no avail. Posted by: eecropredypt
A: This could be an overheating problem affecting any of the ignition-system components, including the ignition ECU (main control unit). But it could also be a problem of fuel vaporisation due to heat soak - maybe due to a missing heat shield. Your best bet is to leave it with a garage for a day.
BRUTAL REALITY OF MOTORING EXPENSE
Q: My four-year-old, 34,000-mile Renault Clio has just had a service at which costly major faults were found. These include the need for a new driveshaft (£460) and new brake discs and pads (£226). I've had a half-price quote from a non-Renault garage. Would you expect these jobs to be needed on a car this young? Posted by: sally.brooks1
A: If they are genuinely needed, that's fair enough. If you're not convinced they are, get a second opinion from another garage. All it takes to wreck a driveshaft is CV-joint gaiter split by a sharp stone. As for brakes, it's not uncommon to need new discs at this mileage, and they need new pads. As you're out of warranty you may as well go with the cheaper garage, providing it's reputable.
HONDA DRIVER ALL AT SEA
Q: I have recently acquired a Honda Concerto 1.6 16v. When starting it up, the ABS light comes on, then goes out as it should. But after a few minutes of driving it comes back on and stays on. I believe this is a common fault, but I can't find a starting point for diagnosis. What is the most likely cause? Posted by: craigjohnstone933
A: With this sort of fault there's only one starting point: a Honda dealer. That's because the ABS system is supremely complicated, and without the necessary electronic diagnostic equipment, I'm afraid you're all at sea.
USED PARTS A COMPLEX OPTION
Q: I have a year-2000 Vauxhall Vectra 2.0 Di. It broke down recently and the roadside rescue mechanic informed me that it will be needing a new fuel pump. In view of the eye-watering cost of one of these, would a second-hand pump need coding to the car's computer system? Posted by: doop037
A: I'm not sure what you mean by that. Firstly establish why he thinks you need a new pump. If the car is still working, take it to a Vauxhall dealer or Bosch agency for a second opinion. Going for a used injection pump is tricky, as you really need to find one with exactly the same part number as yours. If you can't find the exact number, you should really source pump, injectors, looms and electronic management all together.
THE SMELL OF OIL IN THE MORNING
Q: When I'm driving my Fiat Brava 1.9 turbodiesel there's a very strong smell of engine oil coming in though the car's air vents. Can you suggest why this might be? Posted by: kristofer
A: There are two possibilities here. The first is an engine oil leak - maybe oil is dripping onto a hot component and burning. It should be easy enough to see if there's a leak. The second is that you're smelling oil vapour from the crankcase breather system, due either to blockage and over-pressurisation of the system, or to a split or detached pipe.
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