LEARNING TO BE A GREASE MONKEY
Q: Can you tell me what you need to learn in order to become a mechanic? Posted by: kierleeram-1234
A: This varies from country to country, but usually you need some basic school qualifications in science and mathematics. You then need to attain a qualification, such as a diploma, in motor vehicle engineering - generally as the result of a two-to-three-year college course. This is best achieved as part of an apprenticeship or on a day-release basis from a job as a junior in a vehicle workshop, as theoretical knowledge alone is not sufficient for working as a mechanic.
FROM AUTO TO MANUAL
Q: I have an automatic 1987 BMW 320i and I'd like to know if it's possible to convert it to manual transmission. Also, would I need the exact model of gearbox to suit? The engine is a straight-six M20 unit). Posted by: ice_berg92
A: It is possible to convert to manual, but we advise strongly against it. It's not a straightforward job and could well involve modification of the car's floorpan in the area of the gear-selector lever. There will also be wiring changes to make. If you go ahead you must use a gearbox one from another 320i of the same vintage, otherwise the gear ratios will be incorrect.
COMING OUT OF HIBERNATION
Q: My car has not been started for nine months. Are there any precautions I should take before starting it? I have been told to remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over a few times to help lubrication - is that right? Posted by: latchmoor
A: That's exactly right as this will ensure that oil is circulating fully throughout the engine before it operates at speed. We would also squirt liberal quantities of light oil such as WD40 into each spark-plug hole to help free-up and lubricate the piston rings.
THIS HANDBRAKE'S NO YOKE
Q: Can you tell me what a handbrake yoke is and whether it has any bearing on the way a brake works? Also what would cause a handbrake to suddenly go from holding at six clicks to now only just holding at 16? Posted by: leprechaun.1971
A: The yoke balances the tension between the two individual handbrake cables that run to each rear brake, so equalising the braking effort side to side. The sudden change in handbrake characteristic suggests that something has gone wrong with the automatic-adjust mechanism of one or both rear brakes, so get these checked.
SHAKY SIERRA
Q: My 1990 Ford Sierra 1990 automatic starts to shudder at speeds between 50 and 70mph; do you think this could be a fault with the automatic transmission? Posted by: steveydewar
A: No, it's not likely to be anything to do with the transmission and is either caused by imbalance of one front wheel-and-tyre assembly, by a bent front wheel rim, or possibly by an out-of-balance propshaft.
SOUNDS LIKE IT'S THE BIG END
Q: My 80,000-mile N-reg Vauxhall Corsa merit 1.2 suddenly lost all power and had smoke coming from under the bonnet... after which it wouldn't even turn over. It is now at a garage for repairs, but I'd like a rough idea in advance of what might be wrong, so they don't get a chance to fleece me! Posted by: felicityl21
A: It's impossible to tell for sure without seeing the car, but it sounds as if the engine has seized, either because of insufficient engine oil or overheating - possibly both. If this is the case it's likely a replacement engine will be needed. Sorry!
BRAKES: ONLY FOR THE EXPERIENCED
Q: I want to service the brakes of my 1996 BMW 520i Tourer. I know I need four new pads and as many brake discs, plus - I think - two sensors. But is there anything else I need? Also, is it possible for me to bleed the brake system and replace the fluid on my own? Posted by: mikebarrie
A: If you're not an experienced DIY mechanic you should stay well away from brake hydraulics - in fact from brakes generally. Brake-system bleeding is a two-man job anyway. Don't buy new brake discs unless you know for sure they are needed; disc replacement is not a scheduled item. As for other items, bits and bobs such as anti-squeal and anti-rattle shims and springs should be supplied with the pads, but you will need a tube of brake grease.
FAULT CODES REVEAL ALL
Q: I have an R-reg petrol Renault Laguna 1.8 which suddenly loses power as it's being driven. Do you have you any idea why? Posted by: fruitbowl64
A: Not really. This could be caused by literally tens of different things, though it's most likely a fault with the engine management system, so get a dealer to interrogate the system for fault codes.
DISSED BY YOUR DEALER
Q: I am buying a 2001 Renault Clio 1.2 16v from an independent dealer. I have asked them to sort out its uneven idling (a slight misfire that seems to worsen as the engine gets hotter) and excess movement in the gearchange - particularly noticeable when accelerating and decelarating in 1st gear, but they seem incapable of resolving these problems. Should I proceed with the purchase? Posted by: john.wb
A: No. If the faults are too difficult or too costly for them to sort, then you don't want to inherit them. And if it's just that they couldn't be bothered, they they're showing you a lack of respect. There are plenty more second-hand Clios out there.
SMOKING LIKE A TROOPER
Q: I have a year-2000 Vauxhall Zafira 1.6 that uses more oil than petrol. It smokes terribly on start-up (blue-ish grey smoke), and the longer it has been standing the more it smokes. While it used to clear as the engine warmed up, recently that hasn't been the case. Could you suggest the cause? Posted by: dinnes_uk
A: This could be caused by worn valve stems and stem seals, or worse still, by wear of the pistons and rings, though the former is more likely. A garage will be able to diagnose which it is.
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SOUNDS LIKE IT'S THE BIG END
Q: My 80,000-mile N-reg Vauxhall Corsa merit 1.2 suddenly lost all power and had smoke coming from under the bonnet... after which it wouldn't even turn over. It is now at a garage for repairs, but I'd like a rough idea in advance of what might be wrong, so they don't get a chance to fleece me! Posted by: felicityl21
A: It's impossible to tell for sure without seeing the car, but it sounds as if the engine has seized, either because of insufficient engine oil or overheating - possibly both. If this is the case it's likely a replacement engine will be needed. Sorry!
BRAKES: ONLY FOR THE EXPERIENCED
Q: I want to service the brakes of my 1996 BMW 520i Tourer. I know I need four new pads and as many brake discs, plus - I think - two sensors. But is there anything else I need? Also, is it possible for me to bleed the brake system and replace the fluid on my own? Posted by: mikebarrie
A: If you're not an experienced DIY mechanic you should stay well away from brake hydraulics - in fact from brakes generally. Brake-system bleeding is a two-man job anyway. Don't buy new brake discs unless you know for sure they are needed; disc replacement is not a scheduled item. As for other items, bits and bobs such as anti-squeal and anti-rattle shims and springs should be supplied with the pads, but you will need a tube of brake grease.
FAULT CODES REVEAL ALL
Q: I have an R-reg petrol Renault Laguna 1.8 which suddenly loses power as it's being driven. Do you have you any idea why? Posted by: fruitbowl64
A: Not really. This could be caused by literally tens of different things, though it's most likely a fault with the engine management system, so get a dealer to interrogate the system for fault codes.
DISSED BY YOUR DEALER
Q: I am buying a 2001 Renault Clio 1.2 16v from an independent dealer. I have asked them to sort out its uneven idling (a slight misfire that seems to worsen as the engine gets hotter) and excess movement in the gearchange - particularly noticeable when accelerating and decelarating in 1st gear, but they seem incapable of resolving these problems. Should I proceed with the purchase? Posted by: john.wb
A: No. If the faults are too difficult or too costly for them to sort, then you don't want to inherit them. And if it's just that they couldn't be bothered, they they're showing you a lack of respect. There are plenty more second-hand Clios out there.
SMOKING LIKE A TROOPER
Q: I have a year-2000 Vauxhall Zafira 1.6 that uses more oil than petrol. It smokes terribly on start-up (blue-ish grey smoke), and the longer it has been standing the more it smokes. While it used to clear as the engine warmed up, recently that hasn't been the case. Could you suggest the cause? Posted by: dinnes_uk
A: This could be caused by worn valve stems and stem seals, or worse still, by wear of the pistons and rings, though the former is more likely. A garage will be able to diagnose which it is.
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