WHIZZ-BANG BUT NOT MUCH GO
Q: I have a year-2000 Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec. When I start it the revs go as high as 2000rpm, then drop to about 800rpm. Then when I stop at a junction, the revs race up to 3500rpm before going back down to the proper idling speed.
Posted by: ingo
A: This is a typical trait of an air leak, often caused by a loose inlet manifold gasket or detached vacuum pipe. But it could also be an engine management fault, so check for the obvious then get a mechanic onto it.
THE NO-SUCK CITROEN
Q: I have a diesel Citroen and the fuel seems to keep running back to the tank so if the car is dormant for a couple of hours I need to prime the fuel system. I've been told various things, like I need a new fuel filter, new pre-heat plugs, even a new injection pump.
Posted by: cookela
A: It's a common problem, and caused by an air leak to the low-pressure (fuel supply) system. This usual occurs at a joint or a seal, and very often at the fuel filter itself. Because the fuel is drawn up under vacuum, if air gets in, the vacuum is broken and so is the fuel supply. Parking nose-up will then make the fuel drain back to the tank.
LIGHTS ARE ON BUT NOBODY'S HOME
Q: My car won't start at all, but I know that it isn't down to the battery as the headlights work fine and the engine cranks over. What else could it be?
Posted by: mcv947
A: A whole host of things! But the starting point is to check that you have an ignition spark at the plugs (assuming it's not a diesel) and that you have fuel supply to the injection system. If it's a non-common-rail diesel check that the fuel shut-off solenoid is working properly. Beyond that you'll need professional assistance.
FORD'S GOT THE HICCUPS
Q: My 2002 1.6 Ford Focus stutters severely under acceleration. In fact it's so bad that I have to build up speed very gently and progressively to avoid it happening. What do you think is the cause?
Posted by: ofoto
A: Either a breakdown of the ignition high-voltage circuit under load (i.e. larger throttle openings) or an obstruction in the fuel supply. It's also possible that the injection system has an electronic fault.
IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN A NEW LEASE OF LIFE...
Q: I just fitted a new clutch and gearbox to my 1992 Renault R19. After putting it all together there was no spark at the plugs, so I replaced the coil, flywheel speed sensor, distributor cap and rotor, and the engine earth strap. Still no spark!
Posted by: barram60
A: Well, assuming everything is correctly connected and you haven't accidentally pinched an ignition system wire somewhere, the most likely cause is a fault with the engine immobiliser or other anti-theft system. But also check you have the right flywheel sensor and it's fitted to the right depth.
LIKE A JELLY ON THE HIGHWAY
Q: My Ford Fiesta Zetec S has had its tracking set up correctly, so why does it still feel like it doesn't sit properly on the road? Do you have any ideas?
Posted by: blackpointleisuremd
A: There are many possible reasons, including under-inflated tyres, worn suspension or steering joints or soft bushings, and most likely, ineffective damping. You can check for this last one by applying the 'bounce test' at each corner of the car.
NO LONGER UNDER PRESSURE
Q: I recently purchased a used 2000 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. The oil light started to come on about a week after purchase, yet it has had fresh oil and isn't losing any or getting too hot. The light only comes on when the rev-counter drops below 1000 - any ideas?
Posted by: lisa
A: Either the engine oil-pressure sender is defective, or the motor isn't building up sufficient pressure due to wear. This could be wear of the oil pump or the engine's bottom end (crankshaft bearings). Get a garage to carry out an oil-pressure test.
FUEL-LESS PUG
Q: My Peugeot 106 was running fine but now won't start. I have checked for a spark, which is fine, but when I disconnect the fuel pipe to the fuel filter at the back of the carb and turn the engine over nothing comes out.
Posted by: robert.parton
A: It sounds as if you either have a dead fuel pump or a blocked fuel pipe or tank outlet. Depending on the model, you might have an electric pump under the floor toward the rear of the car, or a mechanical one on the engine.
MARKED DOWN FOR GASEOUS EMISSIONS
Q: My VW Polo has failed the MoT for the exhaust emissions being too high. What can I do to rectify this problem?
Posted by: len.cleal
A: Too high an HC (hydrocarbon) reading could be down to engine wear, in which case a new engine is ideally needed! Having said that, if the engine oil and air filter are old you might get a second chance by renewing these. Check with the garage, but it may also be possible to tweak the carburettor or injection system, or the ignition timing, to improve on a bad CO (carbon monoxide) reading.
BLOWING ITS OWN TRUMPET
Q: This is a weird one: my car's horn has taken to beeping on its own while I am driving - I don't have to touch the horn button at all. Can you think of a reason and cure for this embarrassing condition?
Posted by: jaydre57
A: Yes: something is short-circuiting that shouldn't be. Or the contacts in the horn switch are too close together. It shouldn't take long to find out what's going on.
HEAVY ON THE PEDAL
Q: The clutch pedal of my 02-registered VW Passat feels much heavier to depress than that of my previous V-registered Passat, which was the same model. Would you put this down to a normal variation between cars?
Posted by: mccartney.j
A: It shouldn't vary noticeably between identical models, although a different make of clutch assembly could be responsible. More likely though, is a different state of wear; all clutches become heavier to disengage as they wear down.
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LIKE A JELLY ON THE HIGHWAY
Q: My Ford Fiesta Zetec S has had its tracking set up correctly, so why does it still feel like it doesn't sit properly on the road? Do you have any ideas?
Posted by: blackpointleisuremd
A: There are many possible reasons, including under-inflated tyres, worn suspension or steering joints or soft bushings, and most likely, ineffective damping. You can check for this last one by applying the 'bounce test' at each corner of the car.
NO LONGER UNDER PRESSURE
Q: I recently purchased a used 2000 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. The oil light started to come on about a week after purchase, yet it has had fresh oil and isn't losing any or getting too hot. The light only comes on when the rev-counter drops below 1000 - any ideas?
Posted by: lisa
A: Either the engine oil-pressure sender is defective, or the motor isn't building up sufficient pressure due to wear. This could be wear of the oil pump or the engine's bottom end (crankshaft bearings). Get a garage to carry out an oil-pressure test.
FUEL-LESS PUG
Q: My Peugeot 106 was running fine but now won't start. I have checked for a spark, which is fine, but when I disconnect the fuel pipe to the fuel filter at the back of the carb and turn the engine over nothing comes out.
Posted by: robert.parton
A: It sounds as if you either have a dead fuel pump or a blocked fuel pipe or tank outlet. Depending on the model, you might have an electric pump under the floor toward the rear of the car, or a mechanical one on the engine.
MARKED DOWN FOR GASEOUS EMISSIONS
Q: My VW Polo has failed the MoT for the exhaust emissions being too high. What can I do to rectify this problem?
Posted by: len.cleal
A: Too high an HC (hydrocarbon) reading could be down to engine wear, in which case a new engine is ideally needed! Having said that, if the engine oil and air filter are old you might get a second chance by renewing these. Check with the garage, but it may also be possible to tweak the carburettor or injection system, or the ignition timing, to improve on a bad CO (carbon monoxide) reading.
BLOWING ITS OWN TRUMPET
Q: This is a weird one: my car's horn has taken to beeping on its own while I am driving - I don't have to touch the horn button at all. Can you think of a reason and cure for this embarrassing condition?
Posted by: jaydre57
A: Yes: something is short-circuiting that shouldn't be. Or the contacts in the horn switch are too close together. It shouldn't take long to find out what's going on.
HEAVY ON THE PEDAL
Q: The clutch pedal of my 02-registered VW Passat feels much heavier to depress than that of my previous V-registered Passat, which was the same model. Would you put this down to a normal variation between cars?
Posted by: mccartney.j
A: It shouldn't vary noticeably between identical models, although a different make of clutch assembly could be responsible. More likely though, is a different state of wear; all clutches become heavier to disengage as they wear down.
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