GUTLESS WONDER
Q: I recently had a new fuel pump fitted into my Vauxhall Astra Dti 2.0, but now my turbocharger isn't working - the car is losing power. What do you think is going on?
Posted by: paulineloughran
A: How do you know the turbo isn't working? If it's simply down on power, this could be because the injection pump timing was done incorrectly, or the vacuum link between the pump and the turbo has not been connected.
A SINGLE OR A DOUBLE DILEMMA?
Q: I need to replace the rear passenger-side anti-roll bar linkage on my 2001 Honda CRV. Is this something I need to replace on both sides, or is it okay to just replace the side that is worn?
Posted by: danny
A: It depends why it needs replacing in the first place. If it's because a balljoint failed due to a split gaiter, then it's okay just to do the one that's worn. As long as the other side passes scrutiny, you're alright.
KNOCK KNOCK - WHOSE WEAR?
Q: I have a year-2001 Renault Laguna, which has developed a knock from underneath the offside rear when going over rough surfaces. The shock absorbers and suspension arm bushes seem okay - any ideas?
Posted by: rondennis57
A: There's a difference between seeming okay and being okay. Arm bushes can only be properly tested by strategic levering using a long lever - so have a mechanic do this. Also, knocking can come from inside a shock absorber.
TRACTOR'S ON A GO-SLOW
Q: I have a K-reg Land Rover Tdi. The power suddenly disappears if it goes over 2000rpm, although it can still be driven. I haven't continued driving it beyond this speed because I'm scared it could damage the engine. What do you think is wrong?
Posted by: churley
A: Either there is an injection system fault, in which case there might be a warning light on, or the air intake is obstructed, causing the turbo to stall. Have you checked your air filter?
DEAD AHEAD FOR CREAK-FREE PROGRESS
Q: I have a '94 Laguna and when I turn the steering wheel I hear a creaking noise inside the car. Could it just be shrinkage of bushes or gaiters?
Posted by: bellamykirstylou
A: It could be a dry bush in the steering column, something contacting the column when it shouldn't, or unwanted rotation of a front suspension spring.
DON'T FRET ABOUT ADVISORY ITEMS
Q: My Peugeot 307 HDI has just had its first MoT; apparently there is a slight leak from the cam cover, and slight play on the inner steering rack end. Are these serious issues?
Posted by: stephanie_hoole
A: If it failed the MoT for them, then yes, they're serious issues. But if it passed, these must be advisory items, which means they're not ideal, and someone should keep an occasional eye on them, but they're in no way dangerous.
FREELANDER FULL OF HOT AIR
Q: My 1998 Land Rover Freelander's heater takes nearly 20 minutes to get warm, and even then it is intermittent. However, the engine temperature gauge is in the middle position after five minutes.
Posted by: maccies
A: Our best bet is that there's an air lock in the cooling system - notably in the vicinity of the heater radiator. Get the system purged.
A PUMP WITH NO MOTIVATION
Q: I have a 2001 Kia Sportage, and recently, as I was driving down the road, the engine just turned off. I've found that there is no power to fuel pump - why?
Posted by: sbtemp1
A: Probably because a fuse or relay has failed. If not that, then there's a break in the electrical supply to the pump - maybe due to a loose or corroded connection.
REAR BRAKES, WHAT A BIND
Q: I own a 2002 F150 pickup, and after a long-distance drive I've noticed that when reversing, the rear wheels squeak with each rotation. What could be doing this?
Posted by: gsakamai
A: The brakes, although it's odd that they're not squeaking with forward rotation too. It sounds as if the brake calliper pistons (if rear disc brakes) or wheel cylinders (if drums) are partially seizing, so they'll need attention.
A SHOT OF SILICONE MAKES THE DIFFERENCE
Q: When I go over small bumps in my 53-reg Vauxhall Corsa the rear suspension creaks loudly. Is this a common problem, and what can be done about it?
Posted by: grleslie5759
A: It's not a common problem, and it can be due to dry suspension bushes or damper mountings, or unwanted movement in the suspension springs. Sometimes well-targeted silicone spray can make the difference.
GHOST IN THE MACHINE
Q: I have just taken delivery of a new Peugeot 206, and it seems that when I depress the clutch and turn the steering at the same time, the clutch pedal moves on its own. Is this normal for a 206?
Posted by: hotty_hel
A: Absolutely not. Either there's some looseness in the pedals bracket, or the routing of the clutch cable is incorrect and somehow interfering with the steering - although that's unlikely.
REVVING ALL ON ITS OWN
Q: I have a 2002 Ford Focus 1.6. When it's started up, the rev counter goes to 3800rpm for 10 seconds then idles at about 2000rpm. As I accelerate, the revs increase and stay high. Any ideas?
Posted by: malroberts1
A: If it's not some obvious undue friction in the accelerator mechanism, there may be a problem with the fast-idling sub-system of the engine management. Unfortunately, a Ford dealer or injection specialist will be needed to pinpoint the exact cause.
DRIP-FREE LEAKAGE
Q: At the last service I was told the gearbox coupling of my 1997 Volvo S40 is leaking. I didn't have a repair done because there has never been any sign of oil leakage on my driveway. Should there be?
Posted by: howardtenor-45
A: We're not sure what's meant by 'gearbox coupling', but if oil is leaking straight onto a driveshaft coupling it may be being flung around, rather than just dripping downward. Check the gearbox oil level - if it's dropping you'll need a new seal.
LAMENTS FROM DEEP WITHIN
Q: There is a squealing noise from my 1994 Nissan Micra, which happens when accelerating from low speed, and stops when I depress the clutch. Can you suggest possible causes?
Posted by: rt939
A: Yes, it's either a slipping external drive belt or a worn clutch release bearing, which will necessitate gearbox removal. If the latter, this might be time to have a new clutch fitted!
IRRITATING TELLTALE QUICK-FIX
Q: I have a year-2000 Vauxhall Astra LS hatchback, on which I cannot get the driver's seat-belt light to extinguish. Any idea why not?
Posted by: john.harman
A: There is a mechanical switch inside the fixed latch of the belt coupling, and it's probably stuck in one position. For a quick fix, and as it's difficult to take apart the latch unit, you could try pulling the wiring out from it, and connecting the ends together to extinguish the telltale lamp.
MY FORD’S MYSTERY DRAINAGE
Q: If my Ford Scorpio isn't used for two days the battery goes flat. The battery and charging system check out fine. I've been told by a mechanic that there's a constant drain in supplying the interior lights and radio, but all the lights go out after the normal delay.
Posted by: smartsaver
A: There may still be a hidden drain. It's true that systems are still operating to keep security codes and the radio memory alive, but these shouldn't take more than 1 amp maximum - not enough to flatten the battery so quickly. Get an auto-electrician to check what's on when it shouldn't be, and also to check the health of the battery, which could just be flattening itself.
KARMANN'S FLAT AS A PANCAKE
Q: I have a 1972 Karmann Ghia. When I depress the accelerator the engine goes flat and then slowly picks up. It starts every time, ticks over very well and doesn't cut out.
Posted by: t.hayes
A: This is a classic symptom of the carburettor accelerator pump not working, so get that investigated.
STRAIGHTFORWARD BRAKE-PAD CHANGE
Q: Is it easy to replace the front brake pads of my 2002 VW Passat 2.0 SE? Can I get away without needing to bleed the brakes?
Posted by: jonb
A: Yes, it's straightforward, and you shouldn't have to open the brake fluid system unless it's proving difficult to push back the calliper pistons to accommodate the thicker new pads. Even then, opening the bleed nipple should be sufficient, and you shouldn't have to bleed the system.
APPLYING THE CRUNCH TEST
Q: I have a 65,000-mile 1998 Nissan Primera Si with an intermittent problem. I have to force it into first or second gear, but there's no grinding. Is this a clutch or a gearbox problem?
Posted by: jo.smolinski
A: It could be either. To check for a clutch problem (clutch drag), run the car at a fast idle and repeatedly attempt to select reverse gear. If it crunches, the clutch is worn or out of adjustment.
HOW TO STOP THE SQUEALING
Q: I have a 1994 Cavalier 1994 1.8 injection. Every so often the brakes squeal terribly, and although I've been told it's because the pads are new, they are now one year old. The noise stops when I brake sharply.
Posted by: tjdeeming
A: Brake squeal is rarely intermittent, although it can be temperature related. The front brake pads should be removed, the callipers should be cleaned, and everything should be reassembled, ensuring that anti-squeal shims and/or springs are fitted, and that brake grease is applied to the backs of the pads.
AC DOESN'T TAKE WELL TO DISUSE
Q: I've left my Toyota Granvia people carrier unused for four months, and now I find that the air conditioning doesn't seem to work. Is there any connection?
Posted by: Marky_waters
A: Unfortunately, yes! The problem may be corrosion of the AC compressor internals. You should never leave an air conditioning system unused for long, and if a car is laid up you should run the engine and AC at least once a week. However, it might be due to loss of refrigerant gas, so have the system tested by an AC specialist.
RENAULT'S BRAKES ARE A DRAG
Q: I have a Renault Laguna hatchback, and when I am driving there seems to be a squeak or squeal from the front wheels - particularly when I turn the steering. Can you suggest what might be causing this?
Posted by: nige1709
A: Yes, the front brakes. It's most likely partial seizure of one or more front callipers causing the brake pads to remain in light contact with the disc when the brakes aren't being used. This will be exacerbated by cornering. Have the pads and callipers cleaned and inspected.
FORD'S ALL OF A CREAK
Q: My one-year-old Ford Focus makes a dry creaking noise from the area of the front wheel when I drive over bumps. What could be the case?
Posted by: tyler7
A: It's most likely a dry suspension bush or balljoint, which could be in the suspension lower arm or at the suspension strut top mounting. It might also be caused by wear or stiffness of the suspension damper (integrated in the strut).
HEAVY ON THE RELISH
Q: When my Honda Civic 1.6 Vetec was last serviced the mechanic over-filled the sump with oil. Will this harm the engine? If so, how do I get the surplus out?
Posted by: harry.tebbs
A: Maybe it would make sense to get the mechanic to remove the oil for you? You get it out simply by unscrewing the sump plug and draining some off. Excess oil may harm the engine by exerting too much pressure on crankshaft oil seals.
PUFFING BLUE; WHAT DOES IT MEAN?
Q: My diesel car blows out a lot of blueish smoke when stationary - such as at traffic lights. I've been told this could be down to dirty diesel fuel, or to air in the system. How do I know which, or if it's something more serious?
Posted by: sheilabiggs
A: Blue smoke is caused either by engine oil combusting in the cylinders, or by the incomplete combustion of fuel. As the two smell quite different, have an expert put his nose to work at the tailpipe. It's probably burning oil, necessitating fitting new valve stem seals.
IT'S ALL A BALANCING ACT
Q: I have a 1996 Oldsmobile Achieva that I've owned for about a year. Recently it has started to shake or shimmy badly between 48 and 60 mph. There's nothing prior to 48 mph and I don't notice it much at all beyond 65 mph. What is the cause?
Posted by: sissy2042
A: An out-of-balance front tyre or roadwheel (or both), so look for rim damage or a lump in a tyre sidewall. If having both front wheel/tyre assemblies balanced doesn't cure this, swap the rears for the fronts, and rebalance.
A STUB THAT CAN MAKE THE DIFFERENCE
Q: The exhaust tailpipe (just the short bit that protrudes from the rear silencer) of my Renault Clio has fallen off. As the exhaust system is otherwise sound, and not leaking or noisy, is it okay to put the car in for the MoT test like this?
Posted by: jannus_09
A: Because the exhaust system is no longer intact and in its proper condition, the MoT tester is at liberty to fail the car. It should be easy enough to jam a new stub of suitable piping into the silencer hole though.
THEY'RE THE SAME, BUT DIFFERENT
Q: I've mistakenly bought solid replacement front brake discs for my Peugeot 306 1.9 XND, rather than the ventilated type with which it's fitted. Can I fit the solid ones anyway, seeing as they are for the right model?
Posted by: peter_shaun
A: Absolutely not! Even if they fit the car's hubs, the existing brake callipers will either not fit or won't work properly with them. Get them changed, and next time give the supplier your registration number so the right parts are sourced.
ALCOHOL COULD BE THE ANSWER
Q: Is there any way to stop windscreen wiper blades juddering and streaking the screen? I've fitted new blades thinking it would stop the problem, but it hasn't
Posted by: bigginmauler
A: Yes, clean the screen thoroughly with alcohol and try again. If it's still problematic, consider renewing the wiper arms, as these determine the pressure with which the blades are pressed against the glass.
PAVING THE WAY FOR A PASS
Q: My Citroen BX has just failed its MoT because the rear brakes apparently aren't doing anything and the rear discs are rusty. What can I do about this?
Posted by: fordfiend
A: What you can do is provoke the rear brakes into earning their keep by lugging a few paving slabs around in the boot for a while. Assuming no other fault, this will make the rear brakes enter play, which should clean up the discs. Keep the weight in for the next test.
next page
Did we answer your question? If not submit one now
FREELANDER FULL OF HOT AIR
Q: My 1998 Land Rover Freelander's heater takes nearly 20 minutes to get warm, and even then it is intermittent. However, the engine temperature gauge is in the middle position after five minutes.
Posted by: maccies
A: Our best bet is that there's an air lock in the cooling system - notably in the vicinity of the heater radiator. Get the system purged.
A PUMP WITH NO MOTIVATION
Q: I have a 2001 Kia Sportage, and recently, as I was driving down the road, the engine just turned off. I've found that there is no power to fuel pump - why?
Posted by: sbtemp1
A: Probably because a fuse or relay has failed. If not that, then there's a break in the electrical supply to the pump - maybe due to a loose or corroded connection.
REAR BRAKES, WHAT A BIND
Q: I own a 2002 F150 pickup, and after a long-distance drive I've noticed that when reversing, the rear wheels squeak with each rotation. What could be doing this?
Posted by: gsakamai
A: The brakes, although it's odd that they're not squeaking with forward rotation too. It sounds as if the brake calliper pistons (if rear disc brakes) or wheel cylinders (if drums) are partially seizing, so they'll need attention.
A SHOT OF SILICONE MAKES THE DIFFERENCE
Q: When I go over small bumps in my 53-reg Vauxhall Corsa the rear suspension creaks loudly. Is this a common problem, and what can be done about it?
Posted by: grleslie5759
A: It's not a common problem, and it can be due to dry suspension bushes or damper mountings, or unwanted movement in the suspension springs. Sometimes well-targeted silicone spray can make the difference.
GHOST IN THE MACHINE
Q: I have just taken delivery of a new Peugeot 206, and it seems that when I depress the clutch and turn the steering at the same time, the clutch pedal moves on its own. Is this normal for a 206?
Posted by: hotty_hel
A: Absolutely not. Either there's some looseness in the pedals bracket, or the routing of the clutch cable is incorrect and somehow interfering with the steering - although that's unlikely.
REVVING ALL ON ITS OWN
Q: I have a 2002 Ford Focus 1.6. When it's started up, the rev counter goes to 3800rpm for 10 seconds then idles at about 2000rpm. As I accelerate, the revs increase and stay high. Any ideas?
Posted by: malroberts1
A: If it's not some obvious undue friction in the accelerator mechanism, there may be a problem with the fast-idling sub-system of the engine management. Unfortunately, a Ford dealer or injection specialist will be needed to pinpoint the exact cause.
DRIP-FREE LEAKAGE
Q: At the last service I was told the gearbox coupling of my 1997 Volvo S40 is leaking. I didn't have a repair done because there has never been any sign of oil leakage on my driveway. Should there be?
Posted by: howardtenor-45
A: We're not sure what's meant by 'gearbox coupling', but if oil is leaking straight onto a driveshaft coupling it may be being flung around, rather than just dripping downward. Check the gearbox oil level - if it's dropping you'll need a new seal.
LAMENTS FROM DEEP WITHIN
Q: There is a squealing noise from my 1994 Nissan Micra, which happens when accelerating from low speed, and stops when I depress the clutch. Can you suggest possible causes?
Posted by: rt939
A: Yes, it's either a slipping external drive belt or a worn clutch release bearing, which will necessitate gearbox removal. If the latter, this might be time to have a new clutch fitted!
IRRITATING TELLTALE QUICK-FIX
Q: I have a year-2000 Vauxhall Astra LS hatchback, on which I cannot get the driver's seat-belt light to extinguish. Any idea why not?
Posted by: john.harman
A: There is a mechanical switch inside the fixed latch of the belt coupling, and it's probably stuck in one position. For a quick fix, and as it's difficult to take apart the latch unit, you could try pulling the wiring out from it, and connecting the ends together to extinguish the telltale lamp.
MY FORD’S MYSTERY DRAINAGE
Q: If my Ford Scorpio isn't used for two days the battery goes flat. The battery and charging system check out fine. I've been told by a mechanic that there's a constant drain in supplying the interior lights and radio, but all the lights go out after the normal delay.
Posted by: smartsaver
A: There may still be a hidden drain. It's true that systems are still operating to keep security codes and the radio memory alive, but these shouldn't take more than 1 amp maximum - not enough to flatten the battery so quickly. Get an auto-electrician to check what's on when it shouldn't be, and also to check the health of the battery, which could just be flattening itself.
KARMANN'S FLAT AS A PANCAKE
Q: I have a 1972 Karmann Ghia. When I depress the accelerator the engine goes flat and then slowly picks up. It starts every time, ticks over very well and doesn't cut out.
Posted by: t.hayes
A: This is a classic symptom of the carburettor accelerator pump not working, so get that investigated.
STRAIGHTFORWARD BRAKE-PAD CHANGE
Q: Is it easy to replace the front brake pads of my 2002 VW Passat 2.0 SE? Can I get away without needing to bleed the brakes?
Posted by: jonb
A: Yes, it's straightforward, and you shouldn't have to open the brake fluid system unless it's proving difficult to push back the calliper pistons to accommodate the thicker new pads. Even then, opening the bleed nipple should be sufficient, and you shouldn't have to bleed the system.
APPLYING THE CRUNCH TEST
Q: I have a 65,000-mile 1998 Nissan Primera Si with an intermittent problem. I have to force it into first or second gear, but there's no grinding. Is this a clutch or a gearbox problem?
Posted by: jo.smolinski
A: It could be either. To check for a clutch problem (clutch drag), run the car at a fast idle and repeatedly attempt to select reverse gear. If it crunches, the clutch is worn or out of adjustment.
HOW TO STOP THE SQUEALING
Q: I have a 1994 Cavalier 1994 1.8 injection. Every so often the brakes squeal terribly, and although I've been told it's because the pads are new, they are now one year old. The noise stops when I brake sharply.
Posted by: tjdeeming
A: Brake squeal is rarely intermittent, although it can be temperature related. The front brake pads should be removed, the callipers should be cleaned, and everything should be reassembled, ensuring that anti-squeal shims and/or springs are fitted, and that brake grease is applied to the backs of the pads.
AC DOESN'T TAKE WELL TO DISUSE
Q: I've left my Toyota Granvia people carrier unused for four months, and now I find that the air conditioning doesn't seem to work. Is there any connection?
Posted by: Marky_waters
A: Unfortunately, yes! The problem may be corrosion of the AC compressor internals. You should never leave an air conditioning system unused for long, and if a car is laid up you should run the engine and AC at least once a week. However, it might be due to loss of refrigerant gas, so have the system tested by an AC specialist.
RENAULT'S BRAKES ARE A DRAG
Q: I have a Renault Laguna hatchback, and when I am driving there seems to be a squeak or squeal from the front wheels - particularly when I turn the steering. Can you suggest what might be causing this?
Posted by: nige1709
A: Yes, the front brakes. It's most likely partial seizure of one or more front callipers causing the brake pads to remain in light contact with the disc when the brakes aren't being used. This will be exacerbated by cornering. Have the pads and callipers cleaned and inspected.
FORD'S ALL OF A CREAK
Q: My one-year-old Ford Focus makes a dry creaking noise from the area of the front wheel when I drive over bumps. What could be the case?
Posted by: tyler7
A: It's most likely a dry suspension bush or balljoint, which could be in the suspension lower arm or at the suspension strut top mounting. It might also be caused by wear or stiffness of the suspension damper (integrated in the strut).
HEAVY ON THE RELISH
Q: When my Honda Civic 1.6 Vetec was last serviced the mechanic over-filled the sump with oil. Will this harm the engine? If so, how do I get the surplus out?
Posted by: harry.tebbs
A: Maybe it would make sense to get the mechanic to remove the oil for you? You get it out simply by unscrewing the sump plug and draining some off. Excess oil may harm the engine by exerting too much pressure on crankshaft oil seals.
PUFFING BLUE; WHAT DOES IT MEAN?
Q: My diesel car blows out a lot of blueish smoke when stationary - such as at traffic lights. I've been told this could be down to dirty diesel fuel, or to air in the system. How do I know which, or if it's something more serious?
Posted by: sheilabiggs
A: Blue smoke is caused either by engine oil combusting in the cylinders, or by the incomplete combustion of fuel. As the two smell quite different, have an expert put his nose to work at the tailpipe. It's probably burning oil, necessitating fitting new valve stem seals.
IT'S ALL A BALANCING ACT
Q: I have a 1996 Oldsmobile Achieva that I've owned for about a year. Recently it has started to shake or shimmy badly between 48 and 60 mph. There's nothing prior to 48 mph and I don't notice it much at all beyond 65 mph. What is the cause?
Posted by: sissy2042
A: An out-of-balance front tyre or roadwheel (or both), so look for rim damage or a lump in a tyre sidewall. If having both front wheel/tyre assemblies balanced doesn't cure this, swap the rears for the fronts, and rebalance.
A STUB THAT CAN MAKE THE DIFFERENCE
Q: The exhaust tailpipe (just the short bit that protrudes from the rear silencer) of my Renault Clio has fallen off. As the exhaust system is otherwise sound, and not leaking or noisy, is it okay to put the car in for the MoT test like this?
Posted by: jannus_09
A: Because the exhaust system is no longer intact and in its proper condition, the MoT tester is at liberty to fail the car. It should be easy enough to jam a new stub of suitable piping into the silencer hole though.
THEY'RE THE SAME, BUT DIFFERENT
Q: I've mistakenly bought solid replacement front brake discs for my Peugeot 306 1.9 XND, rather than the ventilated type with which it's fitted. Can I fit the solid ones anyway, seeing as they are for the right model?
Posted by: peter_shaun
A: Absolutely not! Even if they fit the car's hubs, the existing brake callipers will either not fit or won't work properly with them. Get them changed, and next time give the supplier your registration number so the right parts are sourced.
ALCOHOL COULD BE THE ANSWER
Q: Is there any way to stop windscreen wiper blades juddering and streaking the screen? I've fitted new blades thinking it would stop the problem, but it hasn't
Posted by: bigginmauler
A: Yes, clean the screen thoroughly with alcohol and try again. If it's still problematic, consider renewing the wiper arms, as these determine the pressure with which the blades are pressed against the glass.
PAVING THE WAY FOR A PASS
Q: My Citroen BX has just failed its MoT because the rear brakes apparently aren't doing anything and the rear discs are rusty. What can I do about this?
Posted by: fordfiend
A: What you can do is provoke the rear brakes into earning their keep by lugging a few paving slabs around in the boot for a while. Assuming no other fault, this will make the rear brakes enter play, which should clean up the discs. Keep the weight in for the next test.
next page
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