THE AUDIBLE HEATER
Q: When I turn my car heater on it makes a really loud noise - sounding as if it's clogged. I don't hear it outside the car while it's running though... what could this be?
Posted by: mcjenn81
A: When you turn its blower on, or the temperature control up? If the former it's either because there's a leaf stuck in the fan casing or the blower bearings are shot. If the latter it's probably caused by an air lock in the coolant, in which case the system needs purging.
CLUTCHING AT STRAWS
Q: I replaced the clutch on my 1993 Hyundai and now it has no 'power' - it goes straight to the floor when I press it and I can't change gears.
Posted by: jt195661
A: Was this a DIY job? If so, you did something very wrong! It could be one of a number of things such as a missing component, incorrect release adjustment, air in the hydraulic release mechanism (if applicable), release bearing the wrong way round... get a professional to check.
AIR-TIGHT ROVER
Q: I have a MG ZR with electric windows that have completely stopped working. This is really irritating, so where should I look first?
Posted by: heather.banks
A: At the fusebox, followed by the relevant relay for the electric window system. Far better that the whole system should fail than one window - it's bound to be a pretty basic cause.
BURNT OUT AT 72K MILES?
Q: I bought a 1998 VW Passat with a dealer service history and a verified 72,000 miles. It uses a lot of oil and I've started noticing a blue puff of smoke on start-up. I can't believe the piston rings would have worn so badly after this low mileage!
Posted by: superjools
A: They probably haven't. Change the oil for a high-quality fully synthetic one, check for possible oil leaks, then do an accurate oil consumption check. One litre per 1000 miles is acceptable. If it's definitely burning the stuff, get a garage to check your valve-stem oil seals.
CAN TWO MILES MAKE THE DIFFERENCE?
Q: Tyre pressures should be measured and adjusted with cold tyres. I live two miles from the nearest garage so by the time I get there my tyres are hot. The pressure should be 28psi, but what should I inflate them to at the garage?
Posted by: jardo
A: It's unlikely you'll register a significant difference for two miles of driving - particularly at current UK temperatures. We suggest you buy a traditional inexpensive, telescopic pressure gauge with which to check cold pressures at home.
CLIO'S A NO-GO
Q: My 1999 Renault Clio 1.2 has been fine, but today after a school run, when I went to start it up again nothing would even turn over - although all panel lights and the radio were on. Even using jumper cables didn't help.
Posted by: anthony.storey1
A: There's clearly a problem with the starter motor and/or its circuit. This could be as simple as loose battery terminals or a rusty engine earth lead connection. The circuit will need going over from ignition lock to starter motor - an auto electrician will pinpoint the problem in a trice.
STUTTERING FORD
Q: I have a 1998 2-litre Ford Mondeo that stutters - particularly when accelerating hard - when the engine is either hot or cold. Could it be that the plug leads needs replacing?
Posted by: colin.evans3
A: It could well be... along with a host of other possibilities. But yes, spark plugs and leads should be checked as a matter of course, and look for moisture on engine management system connections, and split or detached vacuum hoses on the inlet side of the engine. Beyond that you need professional expertise for a diagnosis.
CITRO'S A STICKY BRAKER
Q: I have a Citroen Saxo 1.1i. On occasion when I release the handbrake and pull away there is a clunking noise from the back. Is something sticking, do you think?
Posted by: colinkennedyhere
A: It very much sounds as if something is sticking - most likely a brake shoe to the inside of a brake drum. It could also be due to a partially seizing handbrake lever (due to grime or corrosion) at the drum backplate.
CLUTCH-EATING FIESTA
Q: The clutch of my 1998 1.25-litre Fiesta burned out after 12,000 miles and was replaced with Ford parts. This happened again after only 220 miles and when the replacement was taken out the clutch plate was completely worn on one side, but not the other. Why?
Posted by: raymond.may
A: This is highly unusual, and suggests a problem with either the release mechanism or the clutch pressure plate/diaphragm assembly. Although the clutch was renewed, we'll wager that not ALL components in the assembly were replaced at the time. Make sure that happens this time around, and have the flywheel face checked for blueing.
MY VOLCANE'S A FAILURE
Q: My 1996 Citroen ZX Volcane turbodiesel has failed the MoT test - for its brakes - for the third time in two weeks. Callipers and pressure regulators have been replaced and still it fails, so is there anything else that can be done to the braking system?
Posted by: lynmurtagh
A: You haven't said what aspect of the braking is failing the test. If it's overall braking efficiency it could be the brake hydraulic circuit has air in it or there's back-leakage from the master cylinder. It might also be that the brake discs are in poor condition.
KA'S A CLUNKER
Q: My wife's 1999 Ford Ka rattles from the front suspension over rough roads. I have replaced all suspension struts but it persists, although it has passed its MoT. What could be wrong?
Posted by: rchrdshelagh
A: This may be due to a worn suspension or steering bush or joint - the fact that it's passed the MoT regrettably doesn't mean too much. One frequent cause of this sort of noise is wear of the steering rack end bush - it can cause aural mayhem over rough surfaces.
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Q: My 1999 Renault Clio 1.2 has been fine, but today after a school run, when I went to start it up again nothing would even turn over - although all panel lights and the radio were on. Even using jumper cables didn't help.
Posted by: anthony.storey1
A: There's clearly a problem with the starter motor and/or its circuit. This could be as simple as loose battery terminals or a rusty engine earth lead connection. The circuit will need going over from ignition lock to starter motor - an auto electrician will pinpoint the problem in a trice.
STUTTERING FORD
Q: I have a 1998 2-litre Ford Mondeo that stutters - particularly when accelerating hard - when the engine is either hot or cold. Could it be that the plug leads needs replacing?
Posted by: colin.evans3
A: It could well be... along with a host of other possibilities. But yes, spark plugs and leads should be checked as a matter of course, and look for moisture on engine management system connections, and split or detached vacuum hoses on the inlet side of the engine. Beyond that you need professional expertise for a diagnosis.
CITRO'S A STICKY BRAKER
Q: I have a Citroen Saxo 1.1i. On occasion when I release the handbrake and pull away there is a clunking noise from the back. Is something sticking, do you think?
Posted by: colinkennedyhere
A: It very much sounds as if something is sticking - most likely a brake shoe to the inside of a brake drum. It could also be due to a partially seizing handbrake lever (due to grime or corrosion) at the drum backplate.
CLUTCH-EATING FIESTA
Q: The clutch of my 1998 1.25-litre Fiesta burned out after 12,000 miles and was replaced with Ford parts. This happened again after only 220 miles and when the replacement was taken out the clutch plate was completely worn on one side, but not the other. Why?
Posted by: raymond.may
A: This is highly unusual, and suggests a problem with either the release mechanism or the clutch pressure plate/diaphragm assembly. Although the clutch was renewed, we'll wager that not ALL components in the assembly were replaced at the time. Make sure that happens this time around, and have the flywheel face checked for blueing.
MY VOLCANE'S A FAILURE
Q: My 1996 Citroen ZX Volcane turbodiesel has failed the MoT test - for its brakes - for the third time in two weeks. Callipers and pressure regulators have been replaced and still it fails, so is there anything else that can be done to the braking system?
Posted by: lynmurtagh
A: You haven't said what aspect of the braking is failing the test. If it's overall braking efficiency it could be the brake hydraulic circuit has air in it or there's back-leakage from the master cylinder. It might also be that the brake discs are in poor condition.
KA'S A CLUNKER
Q: My wife's 1999 Ford Ka rattles from the front suspension over rough roads. I have replaced all suspension struts but it persists, although it has passed its MoT. What could be wrong?
Posted by: rchrdshelagh
A: This may be due to a worn suspension or steering bush or joint - the fact that it's passed the MoT regrettably doesn't mean too much. One frequent cause of this sort of noise is wear of the steering rack end bush - it can cause aural mayhem over rough surfaces.
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