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Ask a mechanic - 01/05/04

Car Mechanic - your answers

You can find the answers below to your mechanic questions - click on the next page link to see more answers. To submit your questions click here

BICEP BUILDER
Q: I have a 1992 Oldsmobile 88 and I recently heard a loud pop noise from it, immediately after which the power steering stopped working. Could the power steering pump have failed? The day before I was hearing a high-pitched whining sound when turning the steering, so might it be the power steering belt?
Posted by: kate_ann_01

A: The most likely explanation here is that the power steering drive belt either snapped or was so loose it flew off the pulleys. That would explain the noise and the loss of assistance. Alternatively it's possible that a seal or valve in the hydraulic system has blown, so losing system pressure.

GRAUNCHING TRUCK
Q: You know how a vehicle sounds when the engine is already running and you try to start it again? Well, when I start my truck sometimes it sounds just like that - even though the engine isn't running. Sometimes it doesn't do it for weeks, other times twice in a day.
Posted by: Mike23

A: This is the sound of the starter motor pinion staying engaged with the engine flywheel after the engine has fired. In your case the likely reason for that sound when the engine isn't running is a sticky starter solenoid and/or pinion keeping the motor running and pinion engaged. This needs lubrication or a replacement motor.

SWEDISH FREEZER
Q: I've bought an M-reg Volvo 440 with a failed cabin heater. I've noticed that some heat comes through when driving at speed, but around town it's stone cold. What do you think the problem is?
Posted by: seamus17

A: I would expect the opposite, as the cooling system becomes forcibly cooled by 'ram air' at motorway speeds. Check the heater inlet and outlet hoses are connected the right way round, and have the cooling system thermostat tested. Next check the heater controls are doing what they should (opening flaps, adjusting coolant flow to the heater etc.). Failing that the heater radiator may be congested and needing replacement.

AIRBAG'S BLOWN
Q: I have a 2002 Hyundai Coupé SE 2.0 on which the nearside airbag has blown. Obviously this needs to be sorted, so can you tell me which parts I need to change, and what the cheapest option is?
Posted by: gchikatah

A: You MUST NOT attempt a repair on a DIY basis. This is a specialised job involving expertise and specific equipment, so a Hyundai dealer should be your only port of call. They'll need to replace the bag assembly, the sensor that triggered it, and any interior trim that was damaged when it fired.

SOCAL JERKER
Q: My car has started to 'jerk' when it's at tickover. It has been raining quite a lot here in Southern California - which is rather unusual - so could this just be a case of water getting into crucial electrical wiring?
Posted by: dconnolly

A: It could indeed, though not knowing what car you have, it's difficult to be specific. Moisture ingress to any part of the engine management (particularly the high-tension side of the ignition system) can cause this sort of behaviour. As a DIY intervention, try spraying all under-bonnet electrics with WD40. Otherwise, it's off to the auto-electrician you go.

DIESEL BLOWING BLUE
Q: I have a 1.9 diesel van that's blowing blue smoke and idling roughly. I changed the fuel filter and this sorted it, but only for a couple of days as it's now back into its old ways. What's going on?
Posted by: kieranstack

A: Well, Mr Stack, rough idling and blue smoke - which indicates aborted combustion - can be caused by an air leak on the fuel supply system (usually at one of the unions, especially on the fuel filter) and can also be caused by one or more malfunctioning injectors. But as you've had results after changing the filter, I'd go for the former.

NO-CRANK MAZDA
Q: I have a J-reg petrol Mazda 626 estate that won't start. The battery is new and in good condition, but when I turn the key the starter motor doesn't operate - all I get is a faint click noise. The car bump-starts okay though. I've checked all fuses and the one marked 'engine' is good.
Posted by: bill.rhodes

A: You've either got a bad earth connection in the starter motor circuit, or a duff starter motor or motor solenoid. It's also possible that one or both of the battery terminal connections is loose or oxidised, so check these then take the car to an auto-electrician if need be.

ASTRA ALL OF A GLOW
Q: I have a 1990 1.6 Astra. When it's cold an orange warning light on the dashboard appears intermittently, and once warm it stays on permanently. The alternator belt looks okay and the battery is charging between 13.5 and 14 volts.
Posted by: colin.jk

A: I'm afraid I've not been able to find out what the orange telltale on this vintage of Astra represents; surely there's a symbol or something to suggest what it means? Charge-warning lights are usually red, as are brake warnings, so it could be fluid levels, an engine temperature or fuel-level warning. Refer to the handbook and check all of these.

FIESTA'S BLOWING BLOWER
Q: I have a Ford Fiesta on which the heater blower and reversing lights keep failing, and interestingly enough, they are both on the same fuse, although the fuse is okay!
Posted by: neil

A: Well, I'm guessing then that the fuse is of too high a rating, so that rather than blowing to protect the bulbs, the bulbs are blowing instead. Check the rating and change the fuse if necessary, then find the common earth point for these two circuits, and clean and retighten it.

A LOW-REV JUDDER
Q: I own a P-reg Renault Scénic with 100,000 miles. It recently started to judder - as if stalling - when running at low revs, despite a good road speed being maintained. This happens in first, second and third gears and is worst first thing in the morning. I'd like an idea of what it might be before taking it to a mechanic.
Posted by: a_lorimer

A: Assuming it's a petrol engine, a likely cause of low-rev judder is an ignition system fault. This may be caused by damp in the system, by leaky HT leads or worn spark plugs. They're the obvious things, after which an engine management diagnostic will be required.

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