How to keep your skin looking great

Written by Cheryl Freedman, medical journalist



Everyone wants to have younger looking skin. Unfortunately, even the most effective face creams can't turn back the years, despite 'reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles'. But there are steps we can all take so our skin looks healthy for longer.

Understanding your skin

Before you can look after your skin properly, you need to understand it. Our body's largest organ is made up of three layers.

The outer epidermis contains pigment cells, the stratum corneum surface layer made up of flat, dead skin cells, and the basal layer where new cells are generated and travel upwards.

The middle dermis layer contains blood vessels, nerves, oil glands, collagen fibres and elastin.

The inner subcutaneous layer contains blood vessels, hair follicles and fat cells.

There are a number of things that determine how quickly our skin ages, including genetic factors such as your natural skin type, environmental factors such as exposure to sunlight and external factors such as whether or not you smoke.

In general, pale skins wrinkle faster than darker skins that are protected by increased amounts of pigment and lipids.

Age is another vital factor: your skin is very different at 20 to how it is at 70. Because of this, we've put together an action plan for how to look after your skin decade-by-decade.

Looking after your skin in your 20s

Your 20s is a great time for your skin. You've left behind the spots of adolescence, but your skin retains a youthful glow and the epidermis is still plump and dewy.

That said, skin cell renewal plummets by up to 28 per cent. Dead skin cells are shed less well, leading to slightly duller-looking skin.

Action plan

It's a good idea to get into the habit of using a cleanser and toner - especially if you wear make-up everyday.

Use a moisturiser with a high SPF (around 15) daily. Penetrative UVA rays will already start to take the bounce out of collagen fibres and elastin coils in the dermis. Dermatologists say up to 80 per cent of all ageing may be due to sunlight.

Now is also a good time to give up the cigarettes. Smoking stops oxygen getting to your skin cells and can cause premature ageing, not to mention puckering lines around the mouth in years to come.

Avoid getting into a habit of yo-yo dieting. This is another contributing factor to premature wrinkling - over-stretched skin is baggier skin.

Drink plenty of water to keep your skin hydrated.

Looking after your skin in your 30s

Skin cell renewal slows further, while damage from pollution, smoke and sunlight begins to take its toll on the dermis. This causes collagen fibres to loosen so the skin starts to sag.

When you smile, subcutaneous fat forms ridges that refuse to bounce back as readily as they once did. Your first wrinkles may start to appear.

Action plan

Did you know? Red spider veins are also a general age-related problem, caused by weakened collagen supporting capillary walls less well.

Looking after your skin in your 40s

Sebum (oil) production plummets in your 40s, which is great if you have oily skin, but also means you'll need a good moisturiser to replenish moisture loss. Even so, avoid petroleum-based products that clog the pores.

Loss of fat in the subcutaneous layer leaves your skin more fragile, and the dermis continues to lose its elasticity.

The stratum corneum starts to become even thicker, because dead skin cells hang around for longer.

Action plan

If you haven't already, get into the habit of exfoliating regularly with a facial scrub - but don't go overboard. Once a week or so is enough.

You could also try using a cream containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) that help strip the dead outer epidermal cells away by dissolving protein bonds, leaving your face looking fresher.

Some experts warn that the overuse of AHAs can cause your skin to thin further and become more sensitive to sunlight. Remember too: the older your skin is, the thinner it gets.

As deeper wrinkles start to form, you may wish to experiment with a retinoid cream that uses a pure form of vitamin A. These creams can help to reduce the signs of fine lines, wrinkles and age spots - although those with sensitive skins will find they sting their skins at first.

Most effective is Retinova (tretinoin), which is available only on prescription.

Creams containing another vitamin A derivative, retinol, are freely available over the counter in chemists.

All products with vitamin A make skin more sensitive to sun – so use with an SPF or as a night cream.

Looking after your skin in your 50s and above

Pigment cells (melamolytes), though fewer in number, often clump together to form brown age spots.

Sebum (oil) production shrinks further, the stratum corneum continues to thicken and collagen gets more fibrous.

Decreased oestrogen levels after the menopause mean that skin loses its plumpness and tone, which can leave it dry, itchy and more sensitive to allergens.

Mature skin is not only more fragile, it's physically less sensitive too, and so more vulnerable to bruising and tearing. On top of this, it takes far longer to heal itself.

Blood vessels are easily broken, and warts and other skin growths become more prevalent in your 50s.

Action plan

Take extra care with your skin at this stage in life.

Stick to a gentle cleanser/toner to clean your skin, avoiding irritants and astringents such as alcohol.

Use a good moisturiser with a built-in SPF, and keep out of the sun.

You may want to try a cream with an 'anti-ageing' formula such as retinol or idebenone – use these products at night because they make skin more sensitive to sunlight.

Remember: as our skin ages, wrinkles are both natural and normal. A lived-in face has as much character and beauty as a youthful one.

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