Can a cream make you look younger?

Glycolic acid derived from sugar cane is by far the most frequently used AHA.

AHAs have revolutionised the effectiveness of many skin-care products.

The benefits have been known since the Roman era, and the first scientific papers on AHAs were published in 1974.

In low concentrations, they act as exfoliators and cause little skin irritation.

In higher concentration, AHAs have shown to be effective at:

Higher strength AHAs are available through beauty salons and cosmetic clinics. They must be used under professional guidance and with a sunscreen.

Amino acids (peptides)

The body's building blocks, amino acids make up proteins that are present in our skin and hair.

Claims that they can be absorbed by the skin to rehydrate and provide nutrients are not well-supported by evidence.

Antioxidants

Every breath we take leads to the formation of 'free radicals' that damage healthy cells. In the skin this leads to lines, wrinkles and loss of skin tone.

Antioxidants can reduce the activity of these free radicals, so in theory antioxidants can help the body to repair itself.

At present there is limited evidence to back this theory, especially in topical (cream) form.

Plenty of products contain antioxidants. In the ingredients list look out for pycnogenol (the active part of grapeseed extract) and vitamins A, C and E.

Ascorbic acid

This is the chemical name for the basic molecule of vitamin C, also known as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

Derivatives are used in skin-care products because the pure vitamin is unstable and very irritating to the skin.

Vitamin C is an antioxidant that can lighten pigment, and is one of the most popular constituents in products today. But in cream form, it may not be effective.

Beta hydroxy acid (BHA)

The most common BHA is salicylic acid.

These acids are anti-inflammatory and exfoliating agents, so are useful in the treatment of spots and acne.

BHAs cause sensitivity reactions if overused.

Ceramides

Ceramides are normally found in the skin and help it to retain moisture. Synthetic ceramides are one of the 'buzz' ingredients that claim to reverse the signs of ageing.

Little science exists to back these claims, but they may be proven effective in the future.

Co-enzyme 10 (Q10)

Also an 'in' ingredient, Q10 occurs naturally in the skin and is an antioxidant and antibacterial agent.

As we age, levels of Q10 decrease and this may play a part in skin ageing.

So far, the claims made for Q10's anti-ageing properties are unsubstantiated.

Idebenone (Prevage MD) is a more potent form of co-enzyme Q10. It is the most powerful antioxidant to date, and there is clinical data to support its benefit in ageing skin. It is produced by Allergan, the makers of botox.

Collagen

Collagen is a very large molecule and evidence does not support the suggestion that it can penetrate the skin. It can only sit on the skin's surface where it gives very little benefit.

Green tea

Green tea is a popular ingredient and can be found in everything from face creams to depilatory waxes.

It contains polyphenols that have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. These effects may explain why cold tea bags are applied to the face to reduce swollen eyes.

Research is promising so don't throw the idea out with the tea bags.

Hyaluronic acid

An essential protein found in the skin. It has very powerful moisturising properties, able to attract over 100 times its weight in water. But it needs to be at the correct concentration to work.

Lanolin

Obtained from wool and used as a barrier to reduce water loss from the skin's surface. It is a frequent cause of sensitivity reactions to products, so read the ingredient list carefully.

Retinoic acid, retinol or retinyl palmitate

These are all derivatives of vitamin A.

Retinoic acid (tretinoin) has convinced the medical profession that a topically applied cream can reduce the appearance of lines, wrinkles and pigmentation.

Under the trademark name of Retinova, it is the first drug to be given a licence for treating sun-damaged skin.

To get this licence the company had to show beyond doubt that the product works in the majority of people with limited side-effects.

Retinova can be irritating and make your skin more sensitive to sun, so must be used with a sunscreen.

Cosmetic companies have since jumped on the bandwagon with various vitamin derivatives such as retinol, a weaker version of tretinoin.

While none are as effective as Retinova, two recent studies have shown that creams with retinol can reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

The latest, by Michigan University Medical School, appeared in the journal Archives of Dermatology.

It found a moisturiser with 0.4 per cent retinol 'significantly' improved the appearance of fine wrinkles in elderly people. But only 24 people completed the study, and the benefits were lost once the product was stopped.

Tocopherol acetate

Vitamin E is a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent. Often this vitamin is put into sunscreens to fight free radicals made by sunlight.

Some rigorous data is being collected about the benefits of topical and oral vitamin E on skin ageing, but little has been proved so far.

How do I choose the right product?

With this barrage of ingredients, it is not surprising that most people are unsure about choosing the right skin-care product.

The next time you choose a facial or body product, seek the opinion of a skin-care professional rather than relying on products you can find on shop shelves.

Professionals have potent products in their armoury that are a step above store-bought cosmetics, so are more likely to produce the skin benefits you are seeking.

Otherwise check the ingredient list, which should be on the product or the leaflet inside, and do not be afraid to ask questions.

Don't forget: skin care is more than just picking a product. A healthy diet and stopping smoking will help your skin far more than any cream. And if you really want to avoid wrinkles, use an SPF15 cream every day. Ultraviolet light from the sun's rays is the primary cause of ageing.

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