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In order to look after our skin properly, first we need to understand it. Our body's largest organ is made up of three layers. The outer epidermis comprises pigment cells, the 'horny' stratum corneum surface layer, which is made up of flat, dead skin cells, and the basal layer where new cells are generated and travel upwards. The middle dermis layer contains blood vessels, nerves, oil glands, collagen fibres and elastin. The inner subcutaneous layer contains blood vessels, hair follicles and fat cells.
There are a number of reasons that determine how quickly our skin ages ranging from genetic factors, your natural skin type, as well as external factors such as exposure to sunlight, environmental factors and whether you smoke or not. In general, pale skins wrinkle faster than darker skins, which are protected by increased amounts of pigment and lipids.
Another vital factor is, of course, our age. Our skin is very different at 20 to how it is when we are 70. Because of this, we've put together an action plan for how to look after your skin dependent on your age. Here's our decade-by-decade skin plan.
Looking after your skin in your 20s
Your 20s is a great time for your skin. You've left behind the
spots of adolescence, but your skin retains a youthful glow and the epidermis
is still plump and dewy. Nevertheless, you shouldn't be too complacent. In your
20s cell renewal plummets by up to 28 per cent. Dead skins cells are shed less
well, leading to slightly duller-looking skin. And it's a good idea to get into
the habit of using a high SFP cream (around 15) daily. Dermatologists say up to
80 per cent of all aging may be due to exposure to sunlight. Penetrative UVA
rays will already start to take the bounce out of collagen fibres and elastin
coils in the dermis.
Now is also a good time to give up the cigarettes. Smoking stops oxygen getting to your skin cells and can cause premature aging, not to mention 'puckering' lines round the mouth in years to come. Also, avoid getting into a habit of yo-yo dieting, another contributing factor to premature wrinkling - over-stretched skin is baggier skin.
Looking after your skin in your 30s
By your 30s cell turnover has become slower still. Environmental
damage including pollution, smoke and sunlight have begun to take their toll on
the dermis, causing collagen fibres to loosen so that skin starts to 'sag'.
When you smile, subcutaneous fat forms ridges and refuse to bounce back as
readily as it once did. Your first wrinkles may start to appear.
By now you should have established a daily skincare regime that involves cleansing, moisturising and protecting your skin from the sun. In your 30s, it's important to maintain a balanced diet rich in antioxidants such as vitamins A, B, C and E, which fight off free radicals in the environment (unstable molecules that attack cells in our bodies and speed up aging). Together these vitamins will help the skin repair itself, produce the enzymes that stabilise collagen production, and stay moist and healthy. Fur further protection, try using an antioxidant face-cream, such as one that contains vitamin E.
While there's nothing wrong with a drink now and again, it's also a good idea to cut down on excessive alcohol consumption. Drinking not only robs the skin of vital nutrients, it also causes facial blood vessels to dilate. If you're not careful, these may dilate permanently, leading to red 'spider veins' - also a general age-related problem, caused by weakened collagen supporting capillary walls less well.
In general, keep drinking plenty of water in order to retain further moisture in your skin. Make sure you're getting enough sleep - we all know how much a few restorative good night's sleep improves our complexion. And use a vitamin packed night cream - research indicates that the temperature of skin rises at night, so that nutrients are better absorbed.
Looking after your skin in your 40s
Sebum production plummets in your 40s, which is great if you
have oily skin - but also means you'll need an extra good moisturiser to
replenish moisture loss. Loss of fat in the subcutaneous layer leaves your skin
more fragile, whereas the dermis will continue to lose its
elasticity.
During this time the stratum corneum starts to grow even thicker, as dead skin cells hang around for longer. If you haven't already, it's a good idea to get into the habit of exfoliating regularly, using a facial scrub - but don't go overboard. You could also try using a cream containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), or fruit acids, which help strip the dead outer epidermal cells away by dissolving protein bonds, leaving your face looking 'fresher' and 'younger'. However, some experts warn that overuse of AHAs is bad since they can cause your skin to thin further, and become more sensitive to sunlight. Remember too: the older your skin is, the thinner it gets.
As deeper wrinkles start to form, you may wish to experiment with a retinoid cream which uses a pure form of vitamin A. Most effective are Retinova (Tretinoin) which are available only on prescription. These creams can help to reduce the signs of fine lines, wrinkles and age spots - although those with sensitive skins will find they sting their skins at first. Creams containing another vitamin A derivative, retinol, are freely available over the counter in chemists.
Looking after your skin in your 50s and above
When you reach your 50s, pigment cells or melamolytes, while
fewer in number, often clump together, forming brown 'age' spots. Sebum
production shrinks further, the stratum corneum continues to thicken and
collagen gets more fibrous. After the menopause, decreased oestrogen levels
mean that skin lose its plumpness and tone, and it may be left dry, itchy and
more sensitive to allergens.
Take extra care with your skin at this stage in life. Mature skin is not only much more fragile, it's physically less sensitive too, and, therefore, more vulnerable to bruising and tearing. On top of this, it takes far longer to heal itself. Fragile blood vessels are easily broken, and warts and other skin growths become more prevalent in your 50s. But don't despair. By taking a little care, there's no reason why your skin shouldn't remain clear and healthy. And remember - there's nothing wrong with a few lines. A lived-in face has as much character and beauty as a youthful one.