From: www.tiscali.co.uk/lifestyle/
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The cosmetic industry is constantly striving to produce the most innovative and effective skin-care product on the market, enticing us to purchase the stuff of dreams - a miracle in a jar! But since all are specifically designed to make us look younger for longer, the consumer is faced with a bewildering array of beautifully packaged products that prompt many questions: how do you make a choice? What are all those ingredients with unpronounceable names? What do they actually do? How do they do it? Are they safe? What evidence is there to support company claims? Do they care? How do they arrive at the price?
What are facial creams made of?
Facial creams are composed of various standard ingredients:
With most things in life, you only get what you pay for. Cheap skin-care products will have cheap ingredients. In the more expensive brands, you usually pay for the promise that the new 'ingredient X' will deliver anti-ageing, rehydration, anti-wrinkle, skin-firming or any one of a dozen benefits to the skin.
Ingredients go in and out of fashion. The cosmetic companies seem only to be interested in the latest, most saleable ingredient. Enormous resources are used to develop ingredients that are making skin products more effective than ever. Research provides a company with an initial advantage but soon the innovation is copied, adapted, repackaged and reproduced in a wide range of qualities and prices for the general cosmetic market.
In addition, the cosmetic companies are always seeking to discover new, more effective ways of getting ingredients into the skin. Liposomes are commonly used. They are tiny hollow spheres filled with active ingredients, which are absorbed into the skin and release their contents precisely where they are most needed - under the surface into the deeper layers of the skin.
Dermatologists argue that cosmetics can achieve little except temporary moisturisation. By definition, a cosmetic is not allowed to alter the structure or function of the skin. Of course, many companies imply that their products do alter the skin. Such products are are entering the grey area between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. The regulatory bodies are not always as active as they should be in monitoring these situations, which leaves the public ill-informed and confused.
Common so-called 'active' ingredients, including some of the latest and widely used, are as follows.
Ascorbic acid
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)
Amino acids
Antioxidants
Caviar
Ceramides
Co-enzyme 10 (Q10)
Collagen
Green tea
Hyaluronic acid
Lanolin
Parabens
Polyethylene glycol (PEG)
Retinoic acid, retinol or retinyl Palmitate
Squalene
Tocopherol acetate
This is the chemical name for the basic molecule of vitamin C,
also known as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. These are derivatives of the
vitamin as pure "C" is unstable and very irritating. Vitamin C is a powerful
antioxidant with an ability to lighten pigment, so it is one of the most
popular constituents in products today.
The most common BHA is salicylic acid. BHAs are
anti-inflammatory and exfoliating agents, useful in the treatment of spots, but
they can cause sensitivity reactions if overused.
The body's building blocks, amino acids make up proteins that
are present in our skin and hair. Claims that they can be absorbed by the skin
to rehydrate and provide nutrients are not well-supported by
evidence.
Every breath we take leads to the formation of "free radicals"
that damage healthy cells. In the skin this leads to lines, wrinkles and loss
of skin tone. Antioxidants can reduce the activity of these free radicals, so
in theory antioxidants can help the body to repair itself. At present, there is
limited evidence to back the theory but plenty of products that contain
antioxidants. Look out for vitamins A, C and E and pycnogenol, the active part
of grape seed extract.
Claims that putting caviar on the skin makes you young are for
the gullible. Better to put it in your mouth and swallow.
One of the 'buzz' ingredients that are normally found in the
skin. Again, little science exists to back claims, but ceramides may be proven
effective in the future.
Also an 'in' ingredient. It occurs naturally in the skin and
is an antioxidant and antibacterial agent. As we age, levels of Q10 decrease
and this may play a part in skin ageing. So far the claims made for Q10's
anti-ageing properties are unsubstantiated.
Collagen is a very large molecule and evidence does not
support the suggestion that it can penetrate the skin. It can only sit on the
surface where it gives very little benefit.
Contains polyphenols that have antioxidant and
anti-inflammatory properties. It is a very popular ingredient and can be found
in anything from face creams to depilatory waxes. These effects may explain why
cold tea bags are applied to the face to reduce swollen eyes. Research is
promising so don't throw the idea out with the tea bags.
An essential protein found in the skin. It has very powerful
moisturising properties, able to attract over 100 times its weight in water.
However, to be active, hyaluronic acid needs to be at the correct
concentration.
Obtained from wool and used as a barrier to reduce water loss
from the skin's surface. It is a frequent cause of sensitisation to products,
so carefully read the ingredient list.
Present in food and cosmetics to prevent the growth of
bacteria and fungi. They are non-toxic and approved by the regulatory
authorities.
Helps a product spread more evenly on the skin.
These are all derivatives of vitamin A. Retinoic acid is a
so-called retinoid that has convinced the medical profession that a topically
applied cream can actually reduce the appearance of lines, wrinkles and
pigmentation - a miracle in a tube! Under the trademark name of Retinova, it is
the first drug to be given a licence for treating sun-damaged skin. Of course
to obtain such a licence the company has to show beyond doubt that the product
works in the majority of people with limited side-effects. However, it can be
irritating and make your skin more sensitive to sun so must be used with a
sunscreen. The cosmetic companies have quickly jumped on the bandwagon with
various vitamin derivatives. Most have limited benefits for the skin and none
are as effective as Retinova. The current pinnacle of evidence-based skin
anti-ageing treatments is to combine high concentration alpha-hydroxy-acids
with Retinova.
Another oily component of the skin that helps maintain the
skin barrier and its suppleness.
Vitamin E, a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent.
Often this vitamin is put into sunscreens to fight free radicals made by
sunlight. Some rigorous data is being collected about the benefits of topical
and oral vitamin E on skin ageing.
With this barrage of ingredients, it is not surprising that most
people are unsure about choosing the right skin-care product. I suggest that
when you next choose a facial or body product, you seek the opinion of a
skin-care professional. They have potent products in their armoury that are, in
general, a step above cosmetics found on shop shelves, because they are much
more likely to produce the benefits to your skin you are seeking. Check the
ingredient list, which may be on the product, on the packaging or the leaflet,
and do not be afraid to ask questions.
The documents contained in this web site are presented for information purposes only. The material is in no way intended to replace professional medical care or attention by a qualified practitioner. The materials in this web site cannot and should not be used as a basis for diagnosis or choice of treatment. Conditions for use
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