Nantes: City GuideNantes is historically tied to the Brittany region of north western France but an administrative decision in the 1970s means that the city is now better known as capital of the Loire region.
It's a major maritime city and was once France's busiest Atlantic port. These days, that business has mostly moved downstream to Saint-Nazaire and Nantes has instead become France's most desirable city. It's not hard to see why. It's a delightful old town with a historic centre, great seafood, a lively nightlife thanks to 30,000 students and close proximity to some beautiful Atlantic beaches.
Town: The city's name is derived from the name of the Celtic tribe, known as the Namnètes, who had made the site of Nantes their capital long before the coming of the Romans around 50BC.
In 843, the Normans pillaged Nantes and occupied it until 936 when Alain Barbe-Torte, grandson of the last King of Brittany, retook the town and founded the Duchy of Brittany. But the sovereignty of Nantes and Brittany continued to be fought over for centuries by the counts of Nantes and Rennes.
Finally in 1560, Francis II, king of France, granted Nantes a communal constitution. During the Wars of Religion between 1562 and 1598, Nantes joined the Catholic League but only opened its gates to Henry IV, king of France, in 1598, the same year he signed the Edict of Nantes, a charter assuring religious and civil liberties to all Protestants.
Nantes was again embroiled in civil unrest in 1793 during the French Revolution. The townspeople, who supported the removal of the king, resisted the attacks of the pro-monarchist Vendeens to the south. The traders of the city, also supportive of the Revolution, went as far as to drown anti-government suspects in the Loire River. But Nantes continued to grow.
The city, now a major junction for the transhipment of goods became the busiest French port on the Atlantic. It also became the hub of much of the slave-trading between France and the West Indies. Around the same period, the Dubigeon naval shipyards developed and were to become an integral part of the local economy for the next two centuries.
In the 1920s, Nantes was greatly modified by the adoption of an urban renewal plan for the city centre. But much of this good work was undone by the capture and partial destruction of the city by the Germans during World War II.
More famously perhaps were the 48 innocent citizens who were executed on what became the Place des 50 Otages, in retribution for the murder of a German colonel. It was the post-war years however that changed the face of the city forever. Roads were built on river infill, the railway (which used to cut across town) is now underground and the port was extended and rebuilt.
The original university (founded 1460) was abolished during the French Revolution, but a new one was established in 1961. Nowadays, Nantes is the de facto capital of north-west France and has been designated as a major economic development centre. Many large projects are either underway or have been finished. These include the extension of air [Nantes-Atlantique Airport], rail and road communications, the building of vast industrial zones and the modification of the port to accommodate larger sea-going vessels.
Tourist attractions:
Cathedrale de St. Pierre and St. Paul, Place St. Pierre, Nantes - Begun in 1434, this Gothic cathedral wasn't finished until the end of the 19th century. Best of all is the tomb of François II, Duke of Brittany. Carved from marble by Michel Colombe between 1502 and 1507, it emerged unscathed after a 1972 fire damaged the interior. Inside the cathedral's 11th century crypt is a museum of religions.
Chateau des Ducs de Bretagne, 4 place Marc-Elder, Nantes - Unfortunately, the castle of the Dukes is currently undergoing restoration until 2008 but is worth a look from the outside. Nearby is the place du Commerce, a largely pedestrian area that offers a good array of restaurants and bars.
Passage Pommeraye, rue de la Fosse, Nantes - The Passage Pommeraye opened for the first time in 1843 and is a brilliant piece of architectural engineering, made up of glass and steel and housing one of the best shopping areas in the city. If retail therapy is your thing, then this is definitely the attraction to head for at the heart of the city. The passage has been used as a location in quite a few movies.
Musée Jules Verne de Nantes, 3 rue de l'Hermitage, Nantes - Author Jules Verne was a native of Nantes. Don't miss the museum with multimedia exhibits on the Butte Saint-Anne.
Musée des Beaux-arts, 10 rue Georges-Clemenceau, Nantes - This much celebrated fine arts museum is built around an airy courtyard and features works ranging from the Italian Primitives to contemporary artists. One of the best collections outside of Paris.
Webb Ellis Café. 6 rue Santeuil
This dedicated rugby bar in Nantes are expecting to be ground zero during the World Cup and have organised with special events, extended opening hours and a big screen outside. They will also be organising tasting sessions of regional foods brought to Nantes by small independent producers from Catalonia to the Pays Basque.
Le Lieu Unique. Quai Ferdinand Favre
This venue is designed to house pretty much everything you want under one roof. Bar, bookshop, boutique, restaurant, creche, steam rooms, cultural events, dance hall, music, the arts, the list goes on...
Les Oubliettes. Château des Ducs 4 pl Marc Elder
Restored and fitted out in the tower believed to be the former dungeon of Nantes, on two levels and with a terrace on the yard. The coffee-restaurant welcomes you for a break while remaining in the setting of the castle of the dukes of Brittany.
Accomodation:
Luxury:
Grand Hotel Mercure. 4, Rue du Couëdic.
Location: Town centre. Tel +33 (0) 2 51 82 10 00
Mid-Range:
Graslin. 1, Rue Piron. Location: Town centre
Tel +33 (0) 2 40 69 72 91
France. 24, Rue Crébillon. Location: Town centre
Tel +33 (0) 2 40 73 57 91
La Perouse. 3, Allée Duquesne
Location: Town centre. Tel +33 (0) 2 40 89 75 00
Budget:
Amiral. 26 bis, Rue Scribe
Location: Town centre. Tel +33 (0) 2 40 69 20 21
Cholet. 10, Rue Gresset
Location: Town centre. Tel +33 (0) 2 40 73 31 04
Colonies. 5, Rue du Chapeau Rouge
Location: Town centre. +33 (0)2 40 48 79 76