Marseille. City Guide.Strategically situated on the edge of the Mediterranean, Marseille is France's oldest city and its second largest urban area.
Founded by the Greeks over 2,500 years ago, the city has played a starring role as a crossroads of trade and civilisation between Europe and Africa for centuries.
Town: Marseille began life as a trading settlement founded by Greek sailors around 600 BC.
By the 12th century, Marseille as it was now known was beginning to grow, its progress only being halted at times of conflict. In 1481, the city was absorbed into the French Kingdom but it wasn't until 1660 that it submitted to Louis XVI.
The city's port and infrastructure were developed around this time, as were the impressive Fort St. Nicolas and Fort St. Jean. By the 18th century, the city had developed into one of the great international ports, and comparable to the city-state ports of Genoa and Venice.
Disaster however was never far away and in 1720 the city suffered a devastating plague, one which was to spread across nearly all of France. In total, almost 45,000 were killed, almost half the population at the time.
Marseille was an enthusiastic supporter of the French Revolution and in 1792, 600 volunteers sang 'The Hymn of the Army of the Rhine' as they marched on Paris to join the Revolution.
The song became known as "La Marseillaise", and is now the French national anthem. The 19th century propelled Marseille into the modern era. French colonialism, large infrastructure projects completed during the Second Empire, and the opening of the Suez Canal helped it to extend its influence.
Its economic system, based on processing raw materials, made it hugely prosperous. Once again, however, conflict was to curb Marseille's expansion as the city received a hammering during World War II. Panier, the oldest section of the town, received special attention and was almost completely destroyed. But Marseille bounced back once again, supplying construction materials for the reconstruction of French cities in the post-war period.
The advent of the 70s and the oil crisis saw the city enter a period of steep decline. The city's name became synonymous with crime, and it was the poorer, immigrant neighbourhoods that suffered the most. In recent years, huge efforts have been made to turn the city around, with some notable successes. The arrival of the TGV high speed train, the numerous cruise liners, the unprecedented tourism boom and the development of the Port and the Free Zone are the visible and incontestable signs of the city rediscovering some of its old zest.
The city has, however, suffered in recent years, primarily from poor social planning, corruption and industrial decline. Today, Marseille is still beset with social problems, deprivation and crime.
Yet, for all of the city's troubles, Marseille is fighting back and shedding its old skin. The graceful Vieux Port quarter is bursting with bars and restaurants making the nightlife here one of the best in France. Old districts such as Le Panier have been dusted down and given a new lease of life with new shops, bars and restaurants. Marseille, in spite of all its difficulties, is still a fascinating city, disturbing and downright scary at times but bursting with colour and noise and distinct from any other city in France.
Tourist attractions: Marseille is a big city with 111 different quarters but the areas of interest for visitors are quite contained.
Le Vieux Port - The old port is the principal tourist quarter and its streets are lined with restaurants and cafés. Night-owls will want to check out Place Thiars, one of the liveliest squares in the city. The Theatre National de la Criée is a very popular tourist haunt and well worth a visit. A bit further on, Basilique St Victor is known locally as the 'key to the port'.
La Canebière - This is the most famous road in town. Along it you will see shopping streets such as Rue St Ferréol, and the Musée de la Mode, the Musée de la Marine et de l'Economie, and the Opéra.
Le Panier - Located next to the Vieux Port, this popular district, takes you around the Provençal pedestrian streets lined with multi-coloured buildings. The Clocher des Accoules, la place des Moulins, la Vieille Charité and la Major are all attractions to look out for.
La Joliette - The Joliette docks were built in the 19th century and the interiors have been completely renovated. The Musée des Docks Romains charts the history of the port of Marseille. Try to spend an evening at the Docks des Suds as well.
La Plaine - Otherwise known as Place Jean Jaures, this huge square has a market on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays and is a busy shopping area at other times. In the adjacent streets, there is a wide choice of restaurants, bars and pubs frequented by the locals such as l'Intermédiaire or the Bar de la Plaine.
Endoume - A favourite haunt of locals, this district is dominated by Notre Dame de la Garde. The name La Bonne Mère (literally 'the Good Mother') comes from the enormous statue of the Virgin Mary on top of the bell tower. This church is also an important site for pilgrims.
Longchamp - Palais Longchamp is a good place to get a bit of fresh air but also has a few museums to keep the culture vultures happy. You can also visit the Musée Grobet-Labadie, the Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Muséeum d'Histoire Naturelle-the natural history museum.
Post-match hostelries:
Given the city's size, there are bars and clubs to suit everyone's taste and pocket. The area around the Vieux Port is probably the best place to start an evening's boozing while La Plaine and Place Thiars are also usually choc-a-block at night time.
L'OM Cafe. 3, quai des Belges. Marseille 13001.
Kitted out with big screen tv's, this sports bar is home to the supporters club of Olympique Marseille and will be a perfect place to watch matches during the tournament.
Metro: Vieux Port
Bar de la Marine. 15, quai de Rive Neuve, Marseille 13007
This legendary bar has commanding views of the old port. Check out the sepia photos of director Marcel Pagnol who is said to have shot scenes from his film Bar de la Marine there.
Metro: Rond Pont du Prado
O'Brady's Irish Pub. 378, avenue de Mazargues,
Marseille 13008
Located just ten minutes from the stadium, this pub is extremely popular with Marseille football supporters as well as the odd ex-pat.
Metro: Round-Point du Prado
The Red Lion. 231 avenue Pierre Mendès-France,
Marseille 13008
Homesick visitors can try the Red Lion for some draught beer, English speaking staff and some fish and chips.
Luxury:
Sofitel Palm Beach 200 corniche JF Kennedy, Marseille
+33 (0) 491 161 9 00
Mercure Marseille Beauvau Vieux Port. 4 rue Beauvau
Marseille 13001
+33 (0) 491 549 100
New Hotel Le Pharo. 71 blvd Charles Livon. Marseille 13007 +33 (0) 491 315 315
Mid-Range Hotels:
Hotel du Palais. 26 Rue Breteuil. Marseille 13006 +33 (0) 491 377 886
Hotel Lutetia Marseille. 38, Allee Leon Gambetta
Marseille 13001
+33 (0) 491 508 178
Residence du Vieux Port. 18 Quai du Port. Marseille 13002 +33 (0) 491 919 122
Novotel Marseille Vieux Port. 36 Blvd Charles Livon Marseille 13007. +33 (0) 496 114 211
Budget Hotels:
Hotel Hermès. 2 rue Bonneterie. Marseille +33 (0) 496 116 363
Hôtel Alizé. 35 quai des Belges. Marseille +33 (0) 491 336 697
Citea Marseille Prado Perier. 161 avenue du Prado
Marseille 13008
+33 (0) 496 208 870
Ibis Marseille Prado. 6 rue de Cassis. Marseille 13008 +33 (0) 491 257 373
CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA - 29 OCTOBER: Percy Montgomery and his wife Tamsin celebrate South Africa... 
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