Bordeax City GuideBordeaux may be famous for its wine but the city itself has, in recent years, become one of France's most desirable cities to live in.
After a century in the doldrums, civic pride has transformed the city's oldest quarters and monuments, stripping down years of grime and neglect to reveal ornate medieval churches, Baroque-era facades and Art Nouveau town houses of a bygone merchant class. Then there's the wine...and the great restaurants. Make no mistake, Bordeaux has rediscovered itself.
Town: Bordeaux was settled by a Celtic tribe in the first century AD, who named the town Burdigala. The city soon became prosperous but suffered like most European towns from successive barbaric invasions by the Vandals, Visigoths, Franks and Normans.
In 1154, Bordeaux came under English control following the marriage of Duchess Eleanor of Aquitaine with the French-speaking Count Henri Plantagenet, born in Le Mans, who became, within months of their wedding, King Henry II of England. The city flourished, primarily due to wine exports and its reputation as a centre of wine produce, was sealed.
The English grip however, weakened gradually and in the end, after the Battle of Castillon (1453) it was ceded to the French. The Châteaux Trompette (Trumpet Castle) and the Fort du Hâ, built by Charles VII of France, were the symbols of the new domination but Bordeaux suffered, handicapped by a ban on exports to England.
By the 17th century however, Bordeaux was booming again, thanks in part to the wine trade but more importantly as the centre of a sugar and slave trade with the West Indies. It was during this time that Bordeaux experienced its golden age of prosperity. It became one of the centres of the Enlightenment, and Montesquieu, whose political ideas helped form the American Constitution, served as president of the Bordeaux parliament.
Sadly, it didn't last. Perhaps ironically, it was the Enlightenment-induced French Revolution which knocked Bordeaux from its perch. Since then, the town has weathered storms, both economical and political and is currently enjoying a new wave of prosperity brought about not only by the vine but by aerospace and electronics also.
Location: Bordeaux is capital of the Aquitane region which roughly covers the area from the Basque-Spanish border along the Atlantic coast north to Bordeaux. Bordeaux is also home to the prefecture of the Gironde department. The city itself sits on the Garonne river and is about 30 minutes drive from the Atlantic Ocean.
Tourist attractions: There are plenty of things to do and see in the centre of Bordeaux. What's more, transport has become much easier in recent years with the introduction of a tram system which connects to the resurgent neighborhoods.
You could very easily lose yourself amid the narrow streets and little squares of the St. Pierre quarter, Bordeaux's culinary capital, with a large amount of restaurants to suit every taste and pocket-something for gourmets and gourmands. Nearby, you'll find the majestic gothic spires of St. Andre Cathedral.
The 18th century Mairie is close by and also worth a look. The 6th century Gallo-Roman crypt is perhaps the most impressive attraction, sitting underneath St. Seurin Basilica, holding sarcophagi, amphorae and other relics of a long-vanished Bordeaux. Both of these buildings have been classed as world heritage sites by UNESCO, along with St. Michel Basilica.
Post-match hostelries:
Like any city of its size, Bordeaux has a nightlife to suit everyone's taste. The city centre is quite small so most bars and pubs can be located on foot.
Those feeling homesick can sample the huge range of expat bars here. Bordeaux has historically had a large number of expats living within its environs and this is reflected in the number of Irish and English bars in the city. It is important to remember that Bordeaux is not really a rugby town in the strictest sense so expat bars may often be the best chance of viewing World Cup games during the tournament. The Golden Apple and the Blarney Stone are two of the best.
The Golden Apple. 64, rue de la Pomme d'Or, Bordeaux 33000 One of the oldest pubs in town and still one of the best. The Golden Apple normally does a roaring trade in screening live events so expect to be busy. It's also a good spot for a burger and a game of darts.
The Blarney Stone. 144, cours Victor Hugo, Bordeaux 33000. Irish bar with great pub grub close to the centre of town. As you might expect, the bar has Sky and all the usual suspects on tap behind the bar. Expect it to be packed with Dublin and Limerick accents during the World Cup.
Accomodation:
Luxury Hotels:
Burdigala. +33 (0) 5 56 90 16 16 / +33 (0) 5 56 93 15 06 -
Location: Mériadeck.
Holiday Inn Bordeaux City Centre.
+33 (0) 5 56 92 21 21 / +33 (0) 5 56 91 08 06 -
Location: Saint-Jean
Mercure Château Chartrons
+33 (0) 5 56 43 15 00 / +33 (0) 5 56 69 15 21 -
Location: Les Chartrons/Centre Ville
Mid-Range Hotels:
Alton
+33 (0) 5 56 99 55 55 / +33 (0) 5 56 99 55 99 -
Location: Saint-Augustin
Best Western Bordeaux - Bayonne Etche-Ona
+33 (0) 5 56 48 00 88 / +33 (0) 5 56 48 41 60/61 -
Location: Centre ville
Best Western Grand Hôtel Francais
+33 (0) 5 56 48 10 35 / +33 (0) 5 56 81 76 18 -
Location: Centre ville